‘Crown to Couture’ is the largest exhibition to date at Britain’s Kensington Palace. She shows how the royal court in the 18th century was a place to “see and be seen”: kings, politicians, courtiers and ladies-in-waiting used fashion, elaborate hairstyles and even rented jewelry to assert their status to increase.
This style of “peacocking” has many parallels to the haute couture costumes worn by celebrities like Lizzo, Lady Gaga and Beyonce at the Met Gala and awards shows. This observation served as inspiration for the curators as they curated the exhibition, mixing historical and contemporary costumes.
From prom dresses to makeup
The exhibition started on April 5th and runs until October 29th and includes more than 200 exhibits, from ball gowns and court suits to handbags and jewelry to make-up and shapewear. Among them is a yellow robe believed to be Britain’s widest surviving court dress at almost ten feet long, worn by Lady Helen Robertson of Ladykirk on her debut at court around 1760, as well as Lizzo’s Thom Browne gown from the 2022 Met Gala and Moschino’s luminous chandelier dress worn by Katy Perry.
Polly Putnam, Curator at Historic Royal Palaces, said in a statement: “We are delighted to transform the State Apartments at Kensington Palace for our largest exhibition to date, ‘Crown to Couture’. Seeing these historical spaces alongside stunning examples of historical and contemporary clothing truly brings them to life and we can’t wait for our visitors to experience these spaces in a whole new way.”
Parallels between today’s red carpet and the royal court
The exhibition takes visitors on a journey that ranges from preparing and styling for one of the hottest events in town and the “fashion rules” to follow, to the big arrivals at court and on the red carpet. It also traces the customs and rituals between the 18th century royal court and the red carpet of today, by showing modern garments side-by-side with historical examples to show that the preparation for a Georgian court event is an evolving process not so different from a red carpet appearance.
Highlights included: Billy Porter’s “Sun God” outfit, Kendall Jenner’s shimmering Hepburn-inspired Givenchy dress, and Colman Domingo’s bright fuchsia Versace suit from the 2021 Oscars. Also on display was Lady Gaga’s emerald ensemble, designed by Christopher John Rogers for the 2020 MTV Awards and styled with an extraordinary face mask by Lance Victor Moore.
In contrast, the 1660s silver dress for a young Lady Theophila Harris, worn on formal occasions and in company by King Charles II. The expansiveness of the court mantua was a way of showing how much precious silk one owned, and helped those who wore it to make a grand entrance.
The exhibition also highlights the importance of stylists, such as the “Ur-Stylist” Frances Abington, one of London’s most famous mid-18th-century actresses, known for introducing new fashions into society, like the famous “Abington cap”, and dressed important women of the time. The well-known stylists of today are also featured, from Nicola Formichetti to Jason Rembert and Elizabeth Saltzman.
Clothing as a political statement
The exhibition also shows how clothing can be used to make a political statement. Features include a dress designed by Christian Siriano that reads “Vote” and was worn by Lizzo during the 2020 US Presidential election, and a dress from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2008 show with environmental slogans.
There are many highlights at this exhibition, including The King’s Gallery, which features some of the most glamorous looks, from Billie Eilish’s flowing pink Oscar de la Renta gown from the 2021 Met Gala to Blake Lively’s Versace ensemble, the morphed into two stunning looks ranging from copper to green. You can also see Jessie Buckley’s Schiaparelli suit, Iris Law’s Moschino cut-out dress and Timothée Chalamet’s Tom Ford suit from Cannes 2021.
In the King’s Presence Chamber, where monarchs once received courtiers, ministers and foreign ambassadors, visitors receive an audience with “royal” musicians: Beyonce wore the gold dress designed by Peter Dundas to the 2017 Grammy Awards.
Claudia Acott Williams, Curator at Historic Royal Palaces added: “The customs of the Georgian court may seem distant and anachronistic, but we hope ‘Crown to Couture’ offers a new and familiar perspective through which to explore the palace’s rooms and can understand the traditions of the court.”
The Crown to Couture exhibition runs until October 29, 2023 at Kensington Palace in London.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com
