Dior and Chanel are among the most famous and influential fashion brands in the world. They are considered symbols of French elegance and luxury. However, very few people are likely to know the eventful history of its founders, Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. The new series ‘The New Look’, which can be seen from February 14th on the Apple+ streaming service, highlights an important chapter from the past of the two rival fashion icons who fought for market supremacy after the war.
The ten-part series first tells how Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) works for Lucien Lelong’s (John Malkovich) fashion house in Nazi-occupied France, while at the same time trying to protect his sister Catherine (Maisie Williams). But Catherine Dior is fighting in the resistance. Meanwhile, Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) reluctantly becomes involved with the Nazis to rescue her beloved nephew from captivity. Soon their connection to the occupiers becomes closer and more personal.
“It is not primarily a show about Christian Dior or Coco Chanel,” said Ben Mendelsohn (54) in an interview with the German Press Agency in London. “It’s about how we behave in this world. And we chose these people to represent that. This is not a historical biopic in the strictest sense.”
In general, according to Mendelsohn, it’s primarily about entertaining. ‘The New Look’ succeeds in this perfectly, also because the Australian, here with a subtle hint of a French accent, and his colleagues shine. Hollywood star Glenn Close and, as the influential SS officer Walter Schellenberg, the German Jannis Niewöhner can be seen in supporting roles.
Before ‘The New Look’ deals intensively with fashion, the first third of the series can almost be classified as a spy drama. Chanel’s problematic contacts with the Nazis were initially swept under the carpet after the war and only became known to a wider public in the last 15 years, also thanks to Hal Vaughan’s sensational biography “Coco Chanel: The Black Angel – A Life as a Nazi Agent”. Published in 2011.
Morally complex characters
Oscar winner Juliette Binoche (‘The English Patient’) is spectacular as Chanel. Multi-faceted and convincing, she plays the fashion icon who gets involved with a Nazi officer with British roots and is even hired as an agent. ‘The New Look’ shows not only Chanel’s example how close desperation and opportunism can be in the darkest times.
“When I play a character, I don’t try to judge her, but to understand her roots,” emphasized Binoche (59) in the dpa interview. “Having relationships was nothing special for Coco because she already knew how hard and treacherous life could be. That’s why she cultivated many different relationships, some with artists, others with aristocrats. And I think when World War II came, it was no big deal for them to get involved with a spy who was half German and half English.”
The usual charismatic John Malkovich plays Lucien Lelong, Dior’s employer. “It was the Nazis’ dream to bring the entire fashion industry to Berlin, and Lelong played a key role in preventing that,” said Malkovich (70). The fashion designer represents the entire “moral complexity” of the time. “He also had his designers work to create clothes for the wives and mistresses of the Nazis. He wanted to be able to pay his employees and make sure they had food on the table. And he did what he thought was necessary at the time.”
Shoot at original locations
The series by Todd A. Kessler, creator of the series “Damages: The Web of Power” and “Bloodline,” was shot entirely in Paris, with many scenes on original locations. Kessler expects the series to change the way brands are perceived. “So far there was only one name,” says Kessler, “and now we are personifying them with the experiences of these people.” In addition to Dior and Chanel, Balenciaga, Balmain and Givenchy are part of the story. And Pierre Cardin in a funny scene.
“Inspired by true events,” it says at the beginning of each episode. The makers emphasize their aim to stay as close to reality as possible. For years, intensive research was carried out and historical details were verified. “The fiction consists in the fact that we once made one out of two characters,” explains Kessler’s co-producer Lorenzo di Bonaventura, “or what was actually said in a conversation. We can’t know that. You don’t know that with any true story.”
Chanel emphasized years ago that the founder’s problematic involvements did not fit with the company’s current values. The fashion house belongs to the descendants of the Jewish entrepreneur and co-founder Pierre Wertheimer. Dior, on the other hand, was probably very happy about ‘The New Look’. The fashion house opened the doors to the producers and was involved in the production of the exciting and entertaining series. (dpa)