Escape to Taormina, autumn in a dream setting

The White Lotus effectas the New York Times he baptized the boom in American tourists in Sicily, with Taormina sold out not only this summer but also for the entire month of October.

Thanks to the second season of the award-winning TV series directed by Mike White and set at the San Domenico Palace, one of the most exclusive hotels in Taormina, already a film set inAdventure by Michelangelo Antonioni. But it is now that the famous Ionian town, perched 200 meters above sea level, rediscovers its original vocation as a winter destinationmuch loved by the European nobility of the early twentieth century.

A beautiful November in Taormina

In November the Sicilian climate on beautiful days still allows you to sunbathe on the beachenjoying outdoor breakfasts and walking under the vivid blue sky, surrounded by the thousand shades of green of the gardens, colors no longer faded by the scorching heat of the summer months.

The magic of the autumn clouds enchants, like the sun after the rain that releases intense scents along the characteristic corners of Taormina, views that stole the show from the protagonists of The White Lotus: Corso Umberto e Piazza IX Aprile, famous balcony square from which you can look out to admire the amazing view of the coast. It is impossible to think of Taormina without its landscape. And it is difficult not to be captured by her appeal, a spell that over time has captured international writers and Hollywood stars, dozens of celebrities targeted by photographers’ flashes or here incognito, like Greta Garbo.

In Lady Florence’s park

Taormina today is cloaked in a new sparkling glamourwhile remaining herself. And if it is true that it has always been a deluxe location, its beauty is so widespread as to be democratic: the Municipal Villa (free entry, 9am-8pm) it was the park of the home of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an English noblewoman and relative of Queen Victoriawho lived in Taormina from 1884.

Lady Florence’s wish was to create the park as a typical English garden in which many rare species were planted. In 1922 the garden passed to the municipality of Taormina and, inside, you can still admire some bizarre constructions called victorian follieseclectic style pavilions where Lady Florence used to spend her days, watching birds and sipping tea.

The art of mixology

Today that i Millennials and the Generation Z they don’t give up the cocktail ritual, the trendy mixology in Taormina has many temples of taste. The Bar & Cloister of the San Domenico Palace for the magazine Forbes is one of the best hotel cocktail bars in Italy: the intrigues of The White Lotus. The new Louis Vuitton bar (Corso Umberto I), on the first floor of the brand’s boutique, plays the sea view card, matching the furnishings Sicilian chic and with blue majolica. One of the advantages of the off-season is that you don’t have to queue to enjoy Bam Bar (via di Giovanni, 45) a coffee granita with cream or fruit, but always accompanied by brioche cu’ tuppu.

The winter sea in Taormina

Even if the air becomes crisp, in Sicily in November on sunny days you tan on the beach in front of Isola Bella, which in this season with the beaches closed is free of deckchairs and umbrellas and accessible to all. And it’s nice to walk under the autumn sky, admiring the island from the beach and breathing deeply.

Walk along the Alcantara river

Autumn is the best time to go on the most beautiful excursions in the surroundings of Taormina. If it does not rain, the trip to the Alcantara river gorges is unmissable (Parcoalcantara.it) where you can admire the columnar basalts with organ pipes of ancient lava flows. Those who love nature will not miss the opportunity to walk the Sentiero delle Rive dell’Alcantara, a pleasant trek among willows and poplars along the banks of the Alcantara.

A toast under the volcano

Another environment, another spectacle: the slopes of Etna (which are less than an hour’s drive from Taormina) cloaked in the colors of the foliage. An area full of wineries loved by Americans, such as Planeta (planeta.it) in the Sciaranuova district (Castiglione di Sicilia), at 850 meters above sea level, where the cast of the successful TV series The White Lotus toasted, clinking the glasses of white Etna in the fifth episode of the second season, That’s love. Scenes that this summer have attracted droves of tourists to Etna North for guided tastings in the most prestigious cellars in the area. Now you sip the wine while admiring it to Muntagna with the whitewashed peak smoking, the vineyards bordered by dry stone walls, and the vineyards over 140 years old. Each winery has its strong point: Firriato Cavanera Etna (cavanera.it) has a spectacular restaurant room with very high ceilings, Palmeto Costanzo (palmetocostanzo.com) boasts an ancient palm grove renovated with a conservative restoration. The Pietradolce Winery (cantinapietradolce.com) welcomes you into designer interiors. The Dimora Cottanera, recently inaugurated, offers guests chic rooms with views of the vineyards. In all these wineries, you can book visits to the cellars and tastings of whites, rosés and reds, many of which have been awarded the prestigious award Three glasses Gambero Rosso 2024 (gamberorosso.it/news/notizie-vino/tre-bicchieri-2024-i-best-wines-of-sicily-awarded-by-gambero-rosso).

Taormina, out for shopping

Corso Umberto I, the heart of Taormina, is home to the boutiques of the most famous brands and antique shops such as Galleria Novelli (Corso Umberto 92) with beautiful period jewels and L’Agorà (corso Umberto 133) which displays paintings and prints. Vintage high jewelry shines in Russotti’s windows (Corso Umberto 69). For those with a sweet tooth, two addresses that have remained unchanged over time: La Torinese (Corso Umberto 59) and Pasticceria Etna (Corso Umberto 112) to rediscover the taste of the most authentic Sicilian flavours.

The spectacle of the sunset

If the Greek Theater of Taormina (9-16-45 hours, ticket office closes at 16) dating back to the 3rd century BC, set in the episode Italian dream Of The White Lotus, has already enchanted you with the perfect view of Etna that can be enjoyed from its highest steps, come back just before closing time. Visiting it at sunset, illuminated by the light of the sunset, with the blue sea and the smoking volcano in the background, is exciting. On autumn afternoons you can also enjoy sunsets with unique colors from the Villa Comunale. In Italian sheets Karel Čapek, the most important Czech writer of the first half of the 20th century, wrote: «Taormina, earthly paradise on a whispering sea, island of perfumes and flowers among the rocks, lights on the sea, glowing Etna». How can you not agree with him?

Where to sleep in Taormina

San Domenico Palace
Piazza San Domenico 5, Taormina. The iconic five-star hotel, once a 16th-century convent, played a central role in The White Lotus 2. Transformed into a hotel in the 19th century, it has hosted celebrities such as Oscar Wilde and Hollywood stars such as Audrey Hepburn. After the acquisition in 2019 by the Four Seasons chain, the restyling of the rooms and common areas has secured the two cloisters, set and perfectly inserted into the hotel context, and has brought to light the original colors of the wooden portals, paintings, furnishings and all the decorative elements. Rates on request. fourseasons.com/taormina

Atlantis Bay
Via Nazionale, 161, Taormina. Inserted on a cliff that slopes towards the sea, the hotel overlooks one of the most evocative stretches of the Sicilian coast: the Bay of Sirens, the scenic backdrop to the breakfast room and the Nui Restaurant. Prices on request. vretreats.com/atlantis-bay

Cottanera residence
Provincial Road, 89, Contrada Iannazzo, Castiglione di Sicilia (Catania). Mariangela Cambria transformed the family country house into a charming residence with 13 rooms, between courtyard and garden. The glass-walled gazebo in the vineyard is spectacular, with sofas and books, to relax while sipping the award-winning Etna Rosso Contrada Zottorinoto Riserva 2019 Cottanera. Double room from 180 euros. massimocottanera.com

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