S.it seems impossible to recreate the phenomenon of Puccification – neologism coined by the faithful well before the Guccification by Alessandro Michele, ed – without the vital force of its founder. The Marquis Emilio Pucci of Barsento he lives today in his immortal décor and was, in his time, many things: stylist, aviator, visionary and even politician highly decorated with three silver medals for military valor (he was an aviation ace in the torpedo bombers specialty!). Now it’s the Parisian’s turn Camille Miceli the (im) possible undertaking to bring the maison back to its former glory. Appointed Artistic Director of Emilio Pucci in September 2021, «with the desire to start a new chapter in the history of the Maison», he will unveil his first capsule collection on April 29 in Capri.
Emilio Pucci between past and future
“Pucci is the home of joy, of print, of lifestyle and represents all the beauty of Italy”. Like this Camille Miceli had declared in September, during Bernard Arnault’s nomination ceremony, after the 100% transfer of the company shares of the maison to the LVMH Group. Now it’s up to her: a career in the fashion system that began with Chanel’s public relations and landed in the world of luxury on the side of jewelry, a past in Louis Vuitton and Dior and a great desire to awaken the Emilio Pucci brand that has not been for some years more based in Florence but has completely moved to Milan, including the stylistic studio.
Camille Miceli appointed Artistic Director of Emilio Pucci on 1 September 2021, with the desire to start a new chapter in the history of the Maison.
That of Emilio Pucci is a story that from 1947 to today has contributed to making the Made in Italy concept not just an abstract point of view. «He was convinced that the colors of nature could never be bad together; for this he began to combine them with combinations that followed the natural ones. A kaleidoscopic flair that has always seemed normal to me, I grew up there. After all, my father was like this: a lover of beauty, always in a suit and tie, a descendant of a Russian grandmother and a Neapolitan mother. He could only come from similar roots: a very elegant distillation of joy and creativity “, explained his daughter Laudomia a few years ago on the occasion of the launch of Unexpected Pucci (Rizzoli New York), a book where a lesser known side of the famous designer is discovered among anecdotes of fashion, history and design.
Optical patterns, bright and brilliant colors, exaggerated care in the choice of fine fabrics and a certain comfortable and ultra-chic flair, had easily cleared the designer even abroad. “The Prince of Prints”, the prince of prints, this is not by chance the epithet that the international press had assigned him. Emilio Pucci managed to embody the style of post-war divas, the glamor of the jet set that fascinated a new generation of women in search of new aesthetic references.
1952. Emilio Pucci while drawing at the Canzone del Mare Beach in Capri.
From Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis to Elizabeth Taylor, from Sophia Loren to Marilyn Monroe, who was buried in one of her dresses. Following the death of its founder in 1992, the maison was carried on with love and commitment by his daughter Laudomia Pucci Castellano. In 2000 the brand was acquired by LVMH and a path began in which various creative directors alternate, revisiting and interpreting the codes of the maison. In a link between the past and the ever-present future. Until today, up to Camille Miceli.
Fashion is a woman!
Suffice it to say that in the most prestigious fashion houses the main role is now entrusted to women: Chanel, Dior, Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney, Sarah Burton by Alexander McQueen. The reflection officially opened in the spring of 2019 with the appointment of Virginie Viard as creative director of Chanel (where he had long worked as Kaiser’s assistant Karl Lagerfeld). Until the very recent election of Maria Grazia Chiuri as one of the most influential women over 50 in the world second Forbes. She has the absolute distinction of being the first woman after six creative directors of great fame to take the helm of the house of Dior. Wow!
2022 in this sense will give us great satisfaction. Primarily for the announcement of the great return of Phoebe Philo (post Celine) with a brand that bears her name and which above all is independent, despite the minority stake by LVMH. And let’s face it: we can’t wait.
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