une of the most important and radical innovations that has affected thefashion industry regard the inclusion of bodies traditionally not represented on the catwalks. What were once defined large sizes today they fall into categories such as mid size or plus sizeand are told by highly sought-after models whose measurements move away from those of the top models part of the collective imagination. Paloma Elsesser, Jill Kortleve or Devin Garcia they have carved out an important space for themselves in the fashion system, leading maisons and stylists to create clothes aimed at enhancing the uniqueness and femininity of every body, regardless of size. Providing great look inspiration (e attitude) for those who had never seen themselves in the industry until now. Plus size women are ready to experience fashion to the fullest, debunking some myths and experiencing fashion as an expression of self free from compromises and limits.
Time to come out
The practice that provided for the total coverage of bodies over a certain size, through oversized silhouettes and dark colors, has finally passed into prescription. From the catwalks of Spring Summer 2023 the invitation to is clear uncover, in every sense. The secret is hidden in a skilful play of proportions, which guarantees a balanced and refined final effect. From Chanelfor example, the sweater cropped it reveals a few centimeters of skin, breaking up the figure and making the whole more interesting. It does the same Max Maracombining cropped tops with midi skirts, without the need for sculpted abs or particularly toned legs. 16Arlingtonfinally, it demonstrates that the preppy outfit par excellence, the one starring the pleated skirt, is not the prerogative of just one type of body type, but adapts well to every shape and curve.
Between ruffles and transparencies
On the catwalks of the season it was a triumph of clothes long or midi, tight or soft, printed or transparent. A garment that apparently may not seem suitable for valuing sizes mid- And plus size instead it reveals itself as the perfect ally to express a contemporary and at times sensual femininity, which is not afraid to emphasize its shapes and to show itself for what it is. Brandon Maxwellfor example, find the right proportions for the enveloping printed and sleeveless dress, while Esther Manas play with ruffles and strategically placed seams to flatter every body type. Self Michael Kors demonstrates the importance of a belt placed in the right place for a cohesive and long-limbed final effect, Nensi Dojaka experiment with cut out in new positions.
Dresses of all lengths, materials and silhouettes, for all shapes. From left: Brandon Maxwell, Ester Manas, Michael Kors and Nensi Dojaka
Another “trick” adopted by various designers is the use of veiled materials and of transparent inserts, so as to show off the curves without revealing them completely. From Versace Precious Lee walked the catwalk in a transparent dress decorated with a velvet pattern, coordinated with the black body that created a well-recognizable silhouette. An effective and easy-to-replicate look for a glamorous evening. This see-through effect was also proposed by Laquan Smithon unconventional sheath dresses; Tory Burch uses it on sophisticated midi skirts; Gabriela Hearst on textural and bohemian dresses; from Jacquemus it is found in sheer looks with ton sur ton decorations.
Plays of transparency on the SS23 catwalks. From left: Versace, Laquan Smith, Jacquemus and Gabriela Hearst
Beyond the usual jeans
For more relaxed and casual looks, it’s time to add alternative models to the classic denim or tailored trousers to the seasonal wardrobe. All eyes then on the supermodel’s street style Paloma Elsesser, who loves to combine streetwear and luxury, giving continuous inspiration in terms of fashion for plus sizes. His signature look in fact foresees parachute pants or cargo with an oversized fit, combined with tight-fitting sweaters, sneakers or slingbacks. The outfit is a winner thanks to the proportions of the garments, the similar but not the same shades, the juxtaposition of sporty and more classic garments.
Paloma Elsesser in the outfit made up of parachute pants, sweater and mules (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Salvatore Ferragamo)
Never like this season there is one absolute freedom of experimentation and creativity. You can choose to show or hide, to go the way of sensuality or elegance, streetwear or formal. For a femininity that doesn’t depend on the size printed on a label.
A new chapter of style for plus sizes.
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