clike a butterfly. The Dior woman soars, flying to Mexico City to show the collection Cruise 2024. An all-round tribute to Frida Kahlothe artist who most of all in the common imagination represents this land, which gave birth to it in 1907. And who is also closely linked with Monsieur.
Maria Grazia Chiuri explore the many connections between this “place of the soul”, the figure of Kahlo and Christian Dior, and features a trail of looks inspired by Mexico City culture, craftsmanship and heritage. A swirl of colors and embroideries that mimic the creative rebel’s wardrobe and bring the Maison’s heritage back to life, in the rain, in the courtyard of the College of San Ildefonso.
Dior Cruise 2024: New Mexico
Impossible to forget the legendary suit Mexico Dior from the Spring-Summer 1953 collection, a version of which is also kept at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Bodice and full skirt in organza and red flower that stands out on the waist, to recall the look of the woman symbol of feminism. But also the ensembles of Maria Félix: it was in 1947 that Christian Dior began to discover the place, its culture and its inhabitants, with various gifts and fashion shows. In 1954, the couturier showed in Central and South America.
The location, the college where Frida Kahlo studied
Today tradition and modernity come together in the Colegio de San Ildefonso. A former Jesuit convent, it is not only one of the most evocative buildings in the City, but also a symbolic place: right here Frida Kahlo studied and met the master muralist Diego Rivera, of which several works are found here. foriginator of modern Mexican painting as well as the love of a lifetime: married twice and no children, theirs was a passionate and tormented story.
A shot from the Christian Dior Cruise 2024 show in Mexico (Photo: Rodrigo Oropeza / AFP / Getty Images)
The “butterfly” woman of the Dior fashion show in Mexico
The dresses of the Dior show in Mexico pay homage to the feminist artist’s style on the one hand, and to this love so emblematic – as the soundtrack of the show recites, staged in the courtyard, in the pouring rain. Dressed to get out of the cocoon, which become a sort of representation, protest, affirmation. Chests in which a woman is often hidden butterfly – and it’s not just a figure of speech. The motif is declined in colours, cuts, prints, embroideries, jewels. The animal is on the one hand a tribute to the female body, so central to Kahlo’s work, and on the other to the drawings of Andrée Brossin de Méré retrieved from the Dior archive. And a quote from great Renaissance paintings, such as the Portrait of a Princess by Pisanello.
Dresses to get out of the cocoon
The gender-defying three-piece suits are a nod to Kahlo’s favorite look, who was already claiming her intellectual independence in the iconic ensemble at 19 Sui generis. The echoes of Tehuanian tradition they are multiple, like the full skirt that is worn with a traditional tunic huipil. The costume, already for Kahlo, was a vehicle to emphasize the typical characteristics of women Tehuantepec, described as strong, courageous, sensual and beautiful. “The portrait in the absence of a single person” she described it herself in her diary. Worn with typical Mexican or red boots, with a clear feminist reference – message/signature by Chiuri.
Indigenous embroideries and feminist performances
The embroideries are made by indigenous artisan workshops, according to a practice already experimented several times by Chiuri, and adorn, in particular, suits and shirts. here is thepink dress which mimics that of one of Kahlo’s most famous self-portraits. But also the more austere dresses in black and white, in jersey and velvet. The neck butterfly is the protagonist, as are the wide inlaid or pleated skirts, which open like a corolla sui dressed in aprons. The butterflies return to the canvas toile de jouy inspired by Mexican flora and fauna with parrots, monkeys, sterlizias that also recur in Frida’s paintings. The bar jacket is reinterpreted in indigo denim, the utility outfits are refined with micro capes, sophisticated embroidery, transparent tops and raffia hats, which are also worn with total crochet ensembles. A flicker of lace in cotton, hemp and silk seals the collection.
The performance by the Mexican feminist artist closes the show Elina Chauvet, with white dresses and muslin made «A corazón abierto» – this is the name of the capsule – by the local embroiderers. On the original Parisian archive clothes stand out symbols and words in red: hearts, crinolines, folded hands and smoking mouths. Among the lettering, “hope”, “viva mi vida” and “I trust in you”. The designer announces that these pieces will be exhibited in the Dior Gallery of avenue Montaigne. On the other hand, an exhibition dedicated to Frida Kahlo at the Palais Galliera has just closed its doors in Paris.
International guests
Programmatic presence of the show, the artists in the front row: from Lorenzo Jovanotti to Alicia Keys, who also entertained guests with an exclusive mini concert. But also the actress Rachel Zegler. All flocked to Mexico, to celebrate femininity according to Dior.
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