NoIt doesn’t happen often that i Helios research, innovation and scientific development laboratories of the LVMH group in Orléans, outside Paris, open their doors. Very armored to the public, when it happens, it’s for something exceptional. We were there to find out Dior Capture Totale Le Serum 2023, iconic serum, the result of thirty years of research, now reformulated to be more global and transversal than ever.
Dior skincare, a revolution in the approach to skin
What skin types have been considered in skincare tests so far? Six. It is the practice according to the “Fitzpatrick scale” (Harvard dermatologist), dated 1975 and still valid. And maybe never again. Because Dior has multiplied it, and by a lot. There are over 600 people of different ethnicities and ages between 18 and 70, for a total expanded to 110 types of epidermis, the protagonists of what can be defined as one revolution in the approach to cosmetic testing.
More than 600 people and a range of 110 skin types are the protagonists of the research for the reformulation of the Dior Capture Totale Le Sérum serum.
On the other hand, each skin is unique, thanks to both the DNA with its different phenotypic expressions (i.e. color, melanin, etc.) both the lifestyle (the so-called exposome), so the passage of time does not have the same effects for everyone. How then to guarantee an anti-aging action valid on a global scale? A finally inclusive database of epidermis is the new starting point of Dior research. And the answer lies in something small, indeed, infinitesimalcommon to all.
The Helios research and development laboratories LVMH. Here, Dior Research and Science have enclosed a global anti-aging technology in Capture Totale, through new tests called “Total”, conducted on as many skins as possible in the world. Beyond all standards. (Photo courtesy Dior – Matthieu Salvaing).
The skin has its own capital, the stem cells
«Stem cells: are found at the base of the dermisanchored in the basement membrane. The life of the epidermal tissues depends on their activity, because they produce essential proteins – primarily collagen and integrins – and their regeneration potential, unfortunately not eternal,” he explains Virginie Couturaud, scientific director of communication Parfums Christian Dior.
«Cells with full vital capacity are called “alpha”. Over time, aging reduces its energy by up to 70 percent and its regenerative capacity by about 50 percent. And thus they transform into “beta”, senescent cells».
By then analyzing the hundreds of hides, a world of its own opens up. For example, it was discovered that they are Asians to lose more essential protein, 55 percent, against 40 percent of Caucasians. And the darker the skins, the better they are protected from major photo-visible damage.
Le Serum Capture Totale 2023, 30 ml – 106.73; 50ml – 140.69 euros. From 23 January.
The technology aims at the vitality of the skin
«Dior has been working on stem cells since 1986 with a pioneering approach in cosmetics» he explains Anne-Laure Bulteau, LVMH Research biologist. “Today is possible to slow down the transformation of “alpha” into “beta” and, indeed, restore to the “beta” energy and potential from “alpha” by reinforcing their anchoring, therefore the effectiveness of their inputs, at the base of the dermis».
With a powerful flower, the Longoza
The fortifying elixir is called Longoza, or phoenix flowerwhich also grows on scorched earth. Discovered in Madagascar where today it is protected and cultivated by the Maisonis subjected to a natural process of multi-fermentation and boosted with Florentine iris rhizome extractsor, radiance booster, and hyaluronic acid polyfiller.
Multi-fermentation enhanced Longoza (below) and Florentine iris extract are at the heart of the powerful anti-ageing formula Le Serum Capture Totale.
The formula of the new Dior Capture Totale Le Serum 202398 percent naturalis enclosed in a further innovation: «The active are encapsulated in a double liposome shelli that act as propellers in the journey to the heart of the skin» he adds Valerie Alard, Responsible Innovation Materials. Where they arrive in just four hours.
Science in a bottle
A goal that opens up new scenarios. «Aging is a condition of accumulation of damage, therefore preventing and repairing what can be repaired are the two fronts of action» continues the biologist Bulteau. «Do you know when you start getting old? No, not at 25. She already as embryos, from about the tenth day after fertilization. Only at the beginning of life do stem cells have a flash of “totipotence”, simplifying, of absolute generative expression. When we understand how this is possible, the world will change. But here, sir, we are well beyond cosmetics.’
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