The activewear industry has long been one of fashion’s worst polluters.
Because clothing needs to be stretchy and moisture-wicking, the industry relies heavily on synthetic fibers such as nylon, polyester, and spandex. But these fibers can take decades, if not centuries, to biodegrade, and they also release harmful microplastics into the environment.
One US brand trying to clean up the activewear industry is Definite Articles. It was launched in November 2021 by Aaron Sanandres, the co-founder and CEO of casual shirt brand Untuckit.
“The pandemic caused the darkest 12 months in Untuckit’s history,” Sanandres told FashionUnited. “People just stopped buying shirts with buttons.” Looking for a side hustle and after spotting a gap in the market for comfortable, durable and sustainable socks, Definite Articles was born.
But what started out as a passion for Sanandres soon grew into something much bigger when, in his search for more eco-friendly alternatives to traditional activewear products, he came across a sustainable textile company called CiCLO.
CiCLO has developed an additive that, when combined with polyester and nylon, can drastically accelerate the biodegradability of synthetic fibers, making them comparable to natural fibers such as wool. It does this by tricking microbes into believing they are natural fibers.
After 1,171 days (3.2 years), CiCLO-treated synthetic fibers were 91.1 percent degraded in soil, while comparable untreated synthetic fibers did not degrade at all, according to the company’s website. In addition, according to CiCLO, its additive can reduce the fluff rate of the treated synthetic fibers by 25 percent.
CiCLO’s technology has been certified by Öko-Tex with the Eco Passport, an independent certification system for chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries used in the textile and leather industry.
An idea was born
“That was the moment when it dawned on me,” says Sanandres. “When I got in touch with CiCLO, Definite Articles suddenly went from being a side project to something I was incredibly excited about. I thought to myself, This could be the eco Lululemon.”
The Definite Articles socks — priced at $14.95 for the ankle version and $16.95 for the crew-length calf version — are made from a blend of cotton, polyester, nylon and spandex. CiCLO’s technology doesn’t work with elastane, which makes up about 2 percent of each sock.
“Unfortunately, when it comes to socks, there aren’t many ways to dispose of them,” explains Sanandres, adding that demand for socks for resale is low.
Additionally, the recycling industry favors single fiber products over mixed fibers, and the few mixed fiber recyclers are located outside of the US, which would mean that Definite Articles would have to significantly increase its carbon footprint from long-distance transportation. All current suppliers are located in the USA.
“Ultimately, this means that the socks end up in the trash,” says Sanandres. “And if they do, at least we know that our socks will biodegrade and turn into dirt in years, not centuries.”
According to Sanandres, Definite Articles currently uses recycled polyester, minimal dyes and no finishing treatment.
“Not the perfect answer, but the best solution”
What’s next for the brand? After launching its first children’s collection last month, Definite Articles is now preparing to expand into menswear and womenswear this fall. Sanandres promises that some of the products will be similarly sustainable as the socks, although others with a higher percentage of elastane will not be as biodegradable.
“I know what Definite Articles is doing isn’t the perfect answer in terms of sustainability, but I think it’s the best solution out there today,” admits Sanandres. “We will always strive to impact the environment as little as possible. Our goal is to make products that are ‘durable’ but not ‘everlasting’.”
According to Sanandres, the brand has already developed a strong bond with a community of runners that he plans to expand further. “We want to build a strong, local and loyal following and community,” he affirms. “I think that’s how we can make this brand something very special.”
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.