Those visiting Kingpins denim fair for the first time this week could easily find the fair’s entrance from the nearby train station. A “zipper” of denim-clad people stream in the same direction and even before the fair opens its doors, a line forms at the entrance to the SugarCity event location. This year again, visitors traveled from all over the world and were photographed in front of the exhibition halls in their “all-denim” uniforms. The mood was already boisterous in the queue, raising hopes for a lively Kingpins edition.
During a tour of the exhibition area, almost 100 exhibitors were again represented and it became clear that sustainable solutions are the focus of the trade fair. Although this topic has been relevant for several years, it is now taking on new forms, as discussions with exhibiting brands show. Accordingly, brands are increasingly daring to take the next step and investing time and money. Techniques that have been established for a long time and have recently sparked new enthusiasm are also put in the limelight. Visitors and exhibitors will talk about upcoming European sustainability legislation and Gen Z expectations. Terms like “zero-waste”, “low-emission” and “deadstock” are ubiquitous, often in conjunction with a wide range of certificates. The stands that do not advertise sustainable promises actually stand out as exceptions.
As in the last issue, issues such as inflation and supply chain issues are rarely discussed. Those present are assuming an upward trend in the short term or rather see the challenging economic conditions as business as usual. Although some exhibitors – when asked by FashionUnited – confirm that things are still complicated, they prefer to focus on the possibilities.
Exhibitors at Kingpins: “Brands are increasingly taking the next step towards sustainability”.
“Everyone wants sustainability,” is the message that is at the top of almost every stand. Melahat Ustundag, Sales and Marketing Manager at Kilim Denim, also explains that everyone is now showing an interest in sustainable technologies Biodegradable clothing in particular has been in demand lately. “That’s why we’re pushing ahead with this type of innovation,” she says. Among other things, Kilim uses Roica’s innovation Roica V550, the first biodegradable stretch yarn, which is also used in the collections of Artistic Milliners, Candiani and Prosperity, all of which were shown at the fair.
At the booth of yarn manufacturer Roica, Deputy General Manager Hiroaki Shinohe explains that the Roica V550 yarn was not originally intended as an innovative sustainability solution. In 2016, “when the sustainability trend was gaining momentum,” Roica decided to test the alternative yarn for degradability, he explains. As a result, it was marketed as a sustainable option. Promotion of the yarn started about five years ago, but according to Shinohe, the use of biodegradable materials didn’t “boom” right away like it is now, and therefore not as successful. “Brands then looked more towards recycled materials, such as the pre-consumer recycled Roica EF,” says Shinohe. In the meantime, interest in biodegradable materials has increased significantly, he confirms. However, in his opinion, interest depends on the material. “This is common in the cotton and tencel market, but in the case of polyamide and polyester, it mainly affects recycled materials. Synthetic materials don’t easily combine with V550.”
Recently, hemp has also been increasingly viewed as the next step in achieving sustainability goals, says Marta Cabo, director of design at Artistic Denim Mills (ADM). “Here at the stand we mainly talk about fabrics, construction and sustainability. Everyone wants to know how to become more sustainable. Recycled cotton is a good place to start, but some brands are taking it a step further, for example with hemp.” However, the high cost of hemp is still a barrier for many brands, according to Cabo. “If it was more affordable, everyone would be using it. Me.” hope to see it in more stores in the future.”
French hemp producer Marmara Hemp seems to be capitalizing on this with its “first certified sustainable cotton hemp fibre”. At first glance, this description, which can be read on a poster at the stand, raises questions. Because what exactly is a cottonised hemp fibre? According to Hervé Denoyelle, Vice President of Sales and Marketing at Marmara, this is the question he was asked the most this afternoon.In short, cottonized hemp is a hemp fiber that has been modified to be spun like cotton explains Denoyelle, “As cotton becomes more widely available, it makes hemp more affordable. After all, there are many thousands of cotton mills in the world, many more than hemp mills.”
Denoyelle explains that hemp is increasingly being considered by brands that are expanding their sustainability efforts. “This technology has been around for a while, but we’ve noticed that the demand has been increasing lately,” he explains. Despite inflation and problems in the supply chain, brands are increasingly aware of their responsibility. “Of course there is still a lot of greenwashing, but I believe that the initiatives are more and more genuine. This is mainly due to how consumers behave. They’re always better informed.” However, price is still a limiting factor, according to the hemp producer, “but that’s where our product can play a role.”
Changes in legislation require new options
Sourcing platform Material Exchange is unveiling its ‘Deadstock Depot’ on the opening day of Kingpins, a new digital platform where a network of factories will be displaying leftover stock for clothing brands to order Company’s Ben Felton reports that the first day of the show went well.”Deadstock is a big issue that has only recently been understood. With Gen Z increasingly turning away from fast fashion, I think we’ve reached a point , where brands are ready to take more drastic avenues of sustainable production. They don’t want to change everything just yet. That’s why brands are now mainly looking for limited editions to test the market for new sustainable techniques. It’s not commercial yet enough to really get in. This type of movement is still in its infancy, but it’s growing.”
Regulations and laws are an important factor in this. “Changes in legislation are kind of forcing brands to test new sustainability methods,” says Felton. There is interest not only from brands themselves, but also from government representatives who visited the stand. While he wouldn’t reveal which country, he did reveal that the visitor represents the manufacturing industry and wants to do something with deadstock to solve waste problems.
The forthcoming legislation is also pointed out at many other stands. Nienke Steen, head of apparel, textiles and footwear at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, says new regulations are needed to get consumers and majorities on board. “Young people aren’t just looking for expensive, innovative collections, that’s often not feasible in terms of budget. Instead, they are now looking in the second-hand corner. Legislation can create large-scale solutions that are also more affordable.”
The fair also wants to show accessible ways to produce denim designs in a more sustainable way. For example, the denim factory Crescent Bahan wants to prevent the unnecessary sending of samples with its “handfeel index”. “One problem with denim is that you have to really feel the fabric to decide if you want to go ahead with it,” said Abdullah Zia, associate vice president of Crescent Bahuman. “So we developed a rating for how soft the cotton is. That way, people can still get a good impression from a photo and description. The initiative was born in the Corona period, but we want to continue it because it can reduce the carbon footprint.” However, Zia is also realistic about the time it will take for a sustainable method to become the norm. “It will take at least another two to five years before the tool is actually used. There is a barrier that needs to be broken.”
All in all, Kingpins was a clear demonstration of how far the denim industry is taking strides towards more sustainable practices. Technologies and materials that were once considered too expensive by factories and brands are now slowly but surely becoming more accessible. The manufacturers of new technologies and methods envisage the same path for their articles, regardless of whether they are simple or complex products. It will take time for the new to become the norm, but at least the talks at the show seem to be helping.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.
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