Nonot only has entered the beauty business with the collagen supplementsbut Jennifer Aniston uses these products habitually and her compact and radiant complexion does not suggest a 54-year-old. The collagen it is a precious ingredient for the skin, because when it is fresh and vital it makes the complexion smooth, compact, toned and firmer. We asked a cosmetologist and a nutritionist why it is important to include it in the skincare routine, with cosmetics and supplements that reinforce it.
Collagen in cosmetics
With a rather elastic consistency, collagen is a protein. «It is the main component of the skin and, together with elastin and other specialized molecules, it constitutes the fundamental substance of the dermis, and is produced by specialized cells called fibroblasts». explains the cosmetologist Umberto Borellini, member of SICC (Italian Society of Chemistry and Cosmetological Sciences).
The “scaffolding” that constitutes the dermis loses consistency over time. «With ageing, the texture of its fibers becomes rarefied. A process to which external factors also contribute, such as, for example, exposure to solar radiation».
With collagen or which stimulate it
«Cosmetics containing collagenwhich can be of animal origin or obtained from fish or marine plankton, are undoubtedly an aid in keeping the degradation of collagen fibers under control, they reinforce it and help preserve the tone and compactness of the epidermis.
Jennifer Aniston and her Vital Proteins collagen supplements (@jenniferaniston IG)
They perform a powerful repairing action», explains the expert. “Functional molecules undergo a process called hydrolysis, which uses water to “break them up” making them more easily absorbed. When subjected to this process, collagen is called hydrolysate.
Then there is a category of iingredients defined as pro-collagen, that is, what a support result to preserve its activity. «Among these stand out i biomimetic peptidesthe C vitaminhey polyphenols extracted from grapes».
An extra help, to stimulate the formation of skin collagen, comes from a small hand tool. «It has been seen that associate the application of the cosmetic to a massage with a derma roller softequipped with small pyramids instead of the sharp points typical of the traditional handpiece, provides an additional revitalizing boost».
Collagen in supplements
Used as a dietary supplement, hydrolysed collagen He can have positive effects on the skin when used in synergy with products skincare that contain this ingredient, or formulated with agents that preserve its functionality.
«Improves elasticity and “smooths out” wrinkles. It is also particularly recommended during weight loss, to help the epidermis find tone and elasticity, and to counteract the loss of muscle mass”. explains Federica Almondo, specialist in food science, nutrigenetics expert and founder of Cerva 16 Milano. «The loss of collagen should not be underestimated, it begins as early as the age of 20 and after the age of 40 a loss of about 1% per year can be reached. This causes dryness, loss of skin elasticity, formation of expression lines and wrinkles.
«This ingredient does not exist in the vegetable world, therefore it cannot be vegan», explains the expert. Efficacy studies are numerous and interesting. “One study found that supplementation with marine collagen contributes to reduce the fragmentation of the natural one by 31% after 12 weeks of treatment”.
How and how many to take
“It should be hired at cycles of at least 3 months, to be repeated twice a year. It can be taken at any time of day, but iIts effect is enhanced if taken in the eveningbecause it is during the night that the body activates the cellular reconstruction and regeneration phase», underlines Federica Almondo.
There are formulations on the market that they combine collagen with other components that improve its effectiveness. “It stands out among these the vitamin Cwhich stimulates the production of endogenous collagen, hyaluronic acidwhich helps maintain the water content of the skin, and others antioxidant nutrients that counteract premature aging as resveratrol, astaxanthin And lycopenemore essential micro-nutrients such as zinc, biotin And cysteine», adds the specialist in food science and nutrigenetics expert».
How to choose the right supplement? «Always prefer supplements based on hydrolysed collagen, that is, broken up into small, easily assimilable fragments». Finally, there are some contraindications. «It is not recommended in pregnancy, breastfeeding, renal insufficiency during a high-protein diet. Those suffering from fish allergies should avoid hydrolysed marine collagen,” concludes the food science specialist and nutrigenetics expert.
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