THEwhen the snow falls, the descents on skis and sleds, the walks in the woods, the warm welcome of the stuben in the refuges on the slopes. A break in the mountains in winter is special. Children have fun outdoors, stress vanishes in the spa. And you discover the different cultures and traditions of Alto Adige, the Aosta Valley and nearby Austria.
In South Tyrol Christmas lasts a month. On November 30th, the first Sunday of Advent, we begin to feel the atmosphere that precedes the celebration. Cities and towns are enveloped in the spicy scents of the Christmas Markets. Despite the tourist flows, thanks to their authenticity and strong connection with the territory, you can perceive the original simplicity of these once peasant markets. In Merano, the appointment at the Christmas Market (November 28, 2025 – January 6, 2026, closed December 25) it is along the Kurpromenade, a walk loved by Empress Sissi. And, inspired by “Sissi’s journey around the world”, the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle shine again with Snail (November 20-January 6, 2026, excluding December 24) with light, laser, sound and light installation shows.
Merano brings together those who don’t want to give up the comforts of the city with those who can’t wait to put on boots and skis. The Merano 2000 ski area (meran2000.com) offers 40 kilometers of slopes close to the city. To effortlessly enjoy the walk among the snow-laden fir trees, you board the carriage pulled by Haflinger horses. A “holiday without leaving the hotel” at the Hotel Terme Merano is also completely relaxing and its Sky Spa wellness centre, with 360° views of the Alpine landscape. An oasis with an outdoor and heated infinity pool, saunas, hydromassages, beauty treatments, fireplace and corner dedicated to infusions, herbal teas and apples from South Tyrol.
The Christmas Market in Merano, South Tyrol. Photo by Alex Filz.
In Merano, between shopping and diving
From the hotel, crossing the heated connecting tunnel in your bathrobe, you can reach the 15 swimming pools of the Merano Thermal Baths. To try the experience of a dive into the icy waters of the Passirio riverthe hotel organizes diving with fitness instructor Niki. The important thing is to bring a swimsuit and warm clothes with you. And a pinch of courage. The tour continues under the Portici of Merano, where the most practiced sport is shopping: beautiful Kikinger candles (via dei Portici, 165, kikinger.it). Specialties are purchased in delicatessens and pastry shops to enrich the holiday table.
The Gardens of Castel Trauttmansdorff in Merano shine again with the installations of the “Lumagica” park. Photo by Hannes Niederkofler.
Immersed in nature
A few kilometers from Merano, San Leonardo in Passiria is a renowned holiday center surrounded by mountains and woods. Here stands the Hotel Stroblhofwith three thousand square meters of spa and suites with panoramic views. The warm water of the five heated swimming pools is a special treat that restores you after a day of sport, unsurpassed when it snows outside. On the menu, local cuisine to be combined with refined labels, attention to vegetarian dishes and the vital afternoon buffet.
The lights in via Bottai, in Bolzano. Photo by L. Guadagnini.
On the vintage Renon train
The Renon plateau, which extends above Bolzano, is also a perfect union between city and mountain. It can be reached in 12 minutes by cable car (or half an hour by car). Soprabolzano, a peaceful corner to enjoy the first snow of the year and walk in the woods. Don’t miss the view of the Earth Pyramids, a bizarre phenomenon of natural erosion, eun ride on the Renon train, inaugurated more than a hundred years ago. The narrow gauge railway, crossing woods and meadowsconnects the hamlets of Maria Assunta, Soprabolzano, Costalovara, Stella and Collalbo where there is a wonderful, small station that looks like the set of a Wes Anderson film. On the Renon, hikers discover quiet paths, great views and a five-star resort in the forest, the Adler Lodge Ritten, in Soprabolzano: twenty chalets on the lake and a three-storey central body (Main Lodge), with high ceilings and large open spaces, with the wellness area, the large central fireplace and a lounge area, the glassed-in restaurant for dining under the stars.
The Christmas Market in Piazza Walther, in Bolzano. Photo by Alex Filz.
At the Bolzano Christmas Market
For sports enthusiasts, art and shopping lovers, the road splits: on the Renon plateau you can take the cable car to go up to the heights or the one to go down to Bolzano. On nice days you go up by cable car from Pemmern (1500 metres) to Cima Lago Negro (2069 metres), under the Corno del Renon, to travel the circular Panoramic Path, with a 360 degree view of the peaks of the Dolomites. At the Bolzano Christmas Market, however, from 27 November 93 wooden chalets will welcome travelers in Piazza Walther: among the scents of cinnamon, mulled wine, speck, apple juice, pancakes and strudel.
Ski mountaineering in Gressoney, in the Aosta Valley.
Wooden masterpieces in Ortisei
There is also a festive atmosphere at the Ortisei Christmas Market, where you can admire the wooden sculptures, works of art with a tradition of over 400 years in Val Gardena. For multigenerational holidays, the Grand Hotel Cavallino Bianco in Ortisei, reserved for families with children. It does not just offer entertainment, but has focused spaces, services and activities to meet the needs of all children, including parents and grandparents. The Lino Land program includes 1,250 square meters of indoor play surface, ski and bike schools specialized in courses for children.
On skates or sled?
Change of scenery in Fiè dello Sciliar where nature dominates. Between a ride on skates on the frozen lake of Fiè and a sled ride, you can experience your holiday in a refined vintage atmosphere. Immersed in the landscape, Presulis Hideaway Apartments & Restaurant is located in a strategic position halfway between two areas (Alpe di Siusi and Catinaccio) and from its suites you can enjoy the magnificent view of the nearby Presule Castle.
Castel Savoia, in Gressoney-Saint-Jean, in the Aosta Valley.
In Valle d’Aosta, with snowshoes in the park
The snow, the forest and the charm of history. In Gressoney, one of the most beautiful villages in the Aosta Valley, an easy snowshoe hike (guideturistiche.vda.it) is combined with a visit to the most famous monument in the Lys Valley: Castel Savoia (open from October to March, closed on Mondays) the summer residence of Queen Margherita, who was fascinated by the mountains and was very close to Gressoney. From the turreted manor house the view embraces the Monte Rosa valley. Here, in the Gressoney-Saint-Jean–Weissmatten ski area, people have been skiing since November 1st, while the little ones will become familiar with the snow from December at the expanded and renovated Baby Snow Park Sonne.
A mix of sport and culture
The winter season invites you to silence and reconnect with yourself on the paths and along the wonderful circuits dedicated to cross-country skiing. Souvenirs to buy in the historic center of Gressoney-Saint-Jean? Fontina cheese, Arnad lard, torcetti with butter and mountain potatoes. The best varieties are grown by Paysage à Manger, and are found at Despar. From material culture to that of paper and ink, with books in the window of Foto Guindani (via Monte Rosa, 7, Gressoney Saint Jean). Not far away, in Gressoney-La-Trinité, the Punta Jolanda chairlift connects the town with the Monterosa Ski area (from November 29, 2025, monterosaski.eu). Emotions also run along the new “Murmeltier” toboggan run, in Staffal di Gressoney-La-Trinité, also open for two evenings from 8.30pm to 10.30pm. The last stop of the holiday is the MegaMuseo–Contemporary Archaeological Museum (10am-6pm, megamuseo.vda.it) of Aosta: 12 thousand square meters of exhibition space and archaeological area with a high level of technology, capable of reconstructing the phases of life from the Neolithic to the Bronze Age.
The Dobratsch mountain nature park, in Carinthia, Austria.
Austria, the beauty of “out of hours”
Carinthia becomes even more fascinating when the silence of the night descends and the snow shines in the light of the moon and stars. December 5th will be a special date: the full moon will rise and it will be a Supermoon. A phenomenon that will make evening snowshoe excursions organized in southern Austria unforgettable, such as those in the Dobratsch Mountain Natural Park. The starting point is the Rosstratte car park (at 1732 metres) then you overcome a difference in altitude of 400 metres, along an almost always beaten track. Night-time tobogganing on the Katschberg (carinzia.at/stazioni-sciitiche-carinzia/katschbergrennweg) departing from Gamskogelhütte and Bad Kleinkirchheim). And again: the ski slopes are open even after sunset in Nassfeld/Pramollo, and you can take part in ski mountaineering trips with a headlamp on the Dreiländereck. “Full moon sauna nights” at the Kärnten Therme Warmbad-Villach (5-11 pm, kaerntentherme.com).
Relax in Tyrol
The Wilder Kaiser, one of the most spectacular massifs in the Alps, dominates the horizon of the Bio Wellness Hotel Stanglwirt, in Tyrol: 12 thousand square meters of Spa, where we abandon ourselves to relaxation between the salt cave and pools with water that flows between 28° and 37° C. The day opens on the slopes of the SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser-Brixental, or with snowshoe excursions and a trip to Kufstein Fortress for the Christmas Market (Saturday and Sunday, November 29-December 21). Then you return to immerse yourself in the infinity pools overlooking the peaks, in a universe of water and quiet.
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Where to sleep in South Tyrol, Valle d’Aosta and Austria
Hotel Terme Merano, Piazza Terme 1, Merano. Four design stars in the heart of the city: Sky Spa, with mountain views and Palm Lounge with winter garden. Double from 352 euros in December. “Magical Winter” package: 3 nights with half board from 546 euros per person, from 30 November to 17 December. hoteltermemerano.it
The Sky Spa of the Hotel Terme Merano.
Adler Lodge RittenStella 20, Soprabolzano. Wooden chalet in an idyllic forest. Three nights’ accommodation with full board, including a spa voucher, starting from 810 euros per person, until 21 December. adler-ritten.com
The Adler Lodge Ritten, in Soprabolzano, on the Renon plateau, South Tyrol.
White Horse via Rezia 22, Ortisei. Family hotel with services for babies of a few months and entertainment for children of all ages. Triple in December from 752 euros per day, quadruple from 959 euros. [email protected]
The Family hotel Cavallino Bianco, in Ortisei, Alto Adige. Photo by Hannes Niederkofler.
Presulis Hideaway ApartmentsPrelate 10, Fiè allo Sciliar. The freedom of a holiday in an apartment with hotel services and breakfast. Minimum stay of 2 nights, from 129 euros per person. presulis.com/it
Presulis Hideaway Apartments, in Fiè allo Sciliar, South Tyrol
Bio Wellness Hotel StanglwirtKaiserweg 1 Going am Wilden Kaiser (Austria). Farm-village leader in green hospitality. Double room from 245 euros per person. 4-night package with half board from 1,328 euros per person. stanglwirt.com
The Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt, Tyrol, Austria.
Stroblhofvia Passiria 28/29 San Leonardo in Passiria. For Christmas offer from 800 euros per person for 4 nights with 3/4 board: breakfast, afternoon snack and dinner. stroblhof.com/it
The Stroblhof hotel, in San Leonardo in Passiria, South Tyrol.