THEThe balance of such a significant birthday? «When you have children, there really isn’t time to stop and reflect. I’m more worried about the thought of my girls turning 14 in 2029 than the fact that I turned 60 in January…” Here’s a sensational example of an answer-you-don’t-expect. Christian Louboutin – now an icon, rather than a shoe designer – reveals a new face: that of a caring father. It is no coincidence that we meet him at Disneyland Paris, where an amusement park classic has just reopened: the Disneyland Hotel.
«The little ones (the twins Paloma and Eloise, ed) are thrilled! They couldn’t be happier: what’s more, we are in the suite dedicated to Cinderella.”
Among the fans, Mahmood
Cinderellaor the crucial importance of an adequate shoe… «I have in-depth knowledge of the theme: in 2012 I created a version to celebrate the re-release of the Disney cartoon» smiles Monsieur Louboutin, who in the collective imagination has gone beyond the world of fashion: Jennifer Lopez, in the song Louboutins, uses her creations as a metaphor for female power, rapper Cardi B – in hers Bodak Yellow – as a symbol of social upgrading.
Christian Louboutin at the inauguration of the totally renovated Disneyland hotel in Disneyland Paris.
And he has just been added to the infinite list of admirers (from Caroline of Monaco, the number 1 client, to Catherine Deneuve, from Madonna to Dita von Teese up to Christine Lagarde). Mahmood, who al Sanremo Festival showed off a pair of Tabi brogue boots.
The “fetishist” archetype
«The Cinderella archetype – before his figure was “declined” in Italy by Giambattista Basile, in France by Charles Perrault, in Germany by the Brothers Grimm – is an Egyptian fairy tale from the time of the pharaohs. He was the protagonist Rodopi, a mistreated slave, whose shoe is stolen by a falcon, then dropped in the courtyard of the royal palace. The sovereign smells the magnificent perfume – it’s a slightly fetishistic version (laughs) – and decides that he will marry whoever owns the other shoe. The Disney version has “cleaned up” the story, which was initially very dark: the name (be it Cinderella or Cendrillon or Aschenbrödel) comes from “ash”: the girl had covered her face with the ashes of her dead mother”.
Magnificent obsession
Christian Louboutin with Dita von Teese (Getty Images).
Rodopi or Cinderella, it is clear that shoes have an eternal charm on women. How would you explain it?
«I believe, first of all, that they are a pedestal that elevates: it is no coincidence that obsessed people are generally obsessed with heels, not flat pumps. Today there are those who are obsessed with sneakers, but this is a different story… A stiletto makes you slim, changes your posture, it “incorporates” itself into the silhouette. A naked man with shoes? For goodness sake, he remains a naked man with shoes. A naked woman with shoes, however, is not funny at all: let’s look at the paintings, let’s look atOlympia by Manet… It doesn’t seem bizarre.”
Models & power
Mahmood in Sanremo with the Tabi brogue boots by Christian Louboutin for Maison Margiela.
She also designs Mary Janes and other flat versions. What is the right heel height for the empowered contemporary woman?
«It really depends on the individual personality. There are those who feel good and stronger on high heels, and those who have the same effect wearing boots. A low boot, perhaps, but a boot, with its reference to the universe of hunting.”
He mentioned sneakers, very popular today…
«I started designing them as a man 13, 14 years ago. But in my office there are mostly women, who have started to say: “What about us?”. “Ok fine!”. “And the moccasins?”. “Okay!”. Today there isn’t much difference: I’m creating heels for men, moccasins for women and sneakers for everyone.”
Paris, 12th arrondissement
He remembers the initial click of his passion for it shoe design? Maybe something happened on an unconscious level.
«No, no: he is absolutely conscious. There were two key events. The first: I lived in Paris in the 12th arrondissement and frequented what was then called the “National Museum of the Arts of Africa and Oceania” (in Palais de la Porte Dorée, ed) which also had an aquarium. At the entrance, to prevent walking in heels from ruining the parquet, there was a sign with the profile of a shoe. That was what enlightened me, I understood that everything begins with a sketch: something that didn’t exist could exist. From a drawing you can move on to a concrete object.”
How old was?
«10 or 11, and the vagueness depends on my mother. (smiles) When she passed away, my sister gave me some of her things and there was a sketch on which she had written: ‘Christian made this at 10 or 11 years old’.”
Inspiration Folies Bergère
And the second event?
«I often went to Les Folies Bergère, the Parisian music hall, where operettas, revues and dance were performed. I loved those dancers, to me they were like birds of paradise. I felt I wanted to make something for them but they only had feather dresses, and I was never interested in dresses. I focused on shoes: I started as an intern right there, at 17.”
Growing up with three older sisters must have influenced…
«Yes, of course, but not from an aesthetic point of view: when I look at their photos in that period, I see that they wore super heavy platforms, wedges – pure Seventies style – while my sketches were inspired by the taste of the Fifties and Sixties ».
Idea red
Christian Louboutin and Mika (Getty Images).
Do you even remember the exact moment in which you had the inspiration for the famous red sole?
«It must have been 1991, a year after the opening of the first store. It was for consistency with my sketches: I drew shoes with many colors, pop colors. I looked at them and felt that something was missing… So I thought: I’ll transform the sole from black to red. It worked.”
“My challenges”
Future challenges?
«Continuing everything I’m already doing is now a challenge in itself: things have changed in the last 30 years and remaining independent is a big commitment. Then there is the exhibition dedicated to me in Paris in 2020 (The Exhibition[niste], ed), is touring the world: Shanghai, Seattle, Miami…
It’s Italy?
Maybe it will be in Turin or Rome. In the meantime, we have started a line of glasses with Italy (in agreement with Marcolin, ed).
Natural optimism
Christian Louboutin in Blake Lively’s selfie (Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue).
He is (also) famous for his positive spirit: is it a natural attitude or an achievement?
A natural attitude and a choice: it is fundamental at work. But I don’t have to make a big effort, I’ve always been the glass half full guy.
Is there a mantra that guides you in life?
«It’s not exactly a mantra, but the thing I repeat to myself most often: “Why not?”» (smiles)
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