Challenges of a young, inclusive Franco-Tunisian brand

Within two years, French-Tunisian brand Chez Nous has managed to carve out a place for itself in a saturated fashion landscape. In 2023, it opened in two spaces at Galeries Lafayette and BHV Marais and participated in the European fairs Who’s Next (Paris) and Pitti Uomo (Florence). FashionUnited spoke to Camélia Barbachi, founder of Chez Nous, about the creation and challenges of a young label that positions itself as more responsible and inclusive, as well as its ambitions for the future.

Inclusive brand with a more sustainable offering

The Chez Nous project was launched in 2020, but only came to fruition a year later. By then, Camélia Barbachi, who holds an MBA in international trade and management, had already gained some experience in the fashion industry and felt ready to start her own business. Although she had solid business skills, she lacked “the whole technical part” needed to create collections. After a year-long crash course training her in technical drawing design, she eventually founded Chez Nous in 2021.

Chez Nous has a strong mission of celebrating diversity through clothing constructed in a more ethical and inclusive way. “I found inclusivity to be relatively absent in the fashion industry. “We heard about it, but in practice there were very few brands that were truly inclusive,” says Camélia Barbachi. For her, an inclusive brand means thinking on two levels, through a “gender neutral” wardrobe and a wide range of sizes from XXS to XXXL. “I didn’t see why people who were a triple XL size couldn’t find their size if they liked something in my collection. I didn’t want to reproduce discrimination that we already know.”

Collection Spicy, Chez Nous Image: Chez Nous

With her label, Camélia Barbachi wants to pay tribute to her dual origins and report on the diverse influences that overlap and react to one another. In this sense, it was “logical to work with Tunisia, known for its incredible textile know-how”, but also to reflect this Tunisian heritage through the brand’s DNA. While some of the brand’s products are in workshops for professional integration in France, most of the production is based in Tunisia. The founder explains: “I notice that the Tunisian structures are much better informed and more advanced in terms of environmental and social impact issues, with very strict specifications makes it easier and gives it a framework.”

Chez Nous was launched through a crowdfunding campaign with a system for pre-ordering items, which not only contributed to financing but also assessed the public’s interest in the project. In its first year, the label benefited from the enthusiasm for this campaign, which allowed it to build a community of people who “really support the project”. Still, Barbachi highlights the difficulties, “especially when you’re not part of the industry to begin with,” although her business background has proven to be a great strength, especially when connecting with buyers who “speak the same language (as her).” speak”. Promoting the brand without a budget was undoubtedly one of the biggest challenges for Chez Nous in 2022.

Retail: ideal sales channel to strengthen bonds with customers

Initially, the brand was primarily intended for the Internet. However, the founder realized that consumers were unaware of the quality of her offerings and the fit of the clothing. Therefore, the physical experience was ideal for building a close relationship with their clientele. “I know people today think the physical world is a little outdated, but at my level the temporary stores are a great success, even in an environment where retail is suffering.”

In 2023, Chez Nous has set up three pop-up stores and two spaces in department stores. As part of the “Méditerranée Mania” campaign, the label was offered a sales space in the Galeries Lafayette, where the founder was able to choose a scenography based on the Chez Nous model. “I have found that this presence (in a department store) adds weight and credibility to the brand. In addition to the obvious visibility, this is also reflected in online sales. Beyond the commercial aspect, it is a real showcase and business card for the brand.”

Collection Spicy, Chez Nous
Collection Spicy, Chez Nous Image: Chez Nous

In the same year, the brand presented its offer at the Who’s Next trade fairs in France and Pitti Uomo in Italy. When asked about its presence at events outside France, Barbachi explains that the brand, intended to be international from the start, resonates not only with French consumers. In particular, she explains that in France, gender freedom is “not yet a given, not fully democratized,” with a fairly clear distinction between women’s and men’s collections, “where the British are further along on this issue.” She adds: “In France “You tend to trust and gravitate towards established brands and be more wary of new labels, while abroad you are excited about a product and happy to have discovered and tracked down a new brand.”

Collection Spicy, Chez Nous
Collection Spicy, Chez Nous Image: Chez Nous

2024: Focus on sales in France and abroad

Chez Nous now wants to increase the number of specialist retailers abroad and open pop-up stores beyond French borders. In parallel, the label is exploring the possibility of participating in other European trade fairs, particularly in the Nordic region, where customers are receptive to its DNA. One of the brand’s goals is to continue to be distributed in major department stores and to continue opening temporary boutiques, although it has long-term plans to open its own boutique. Finally, Chez Nous relies on a premium image, an artistic direction embodied by minimalist visualizations that “emphasize the quality of the clothing,” as evidenced by the recent campaign for the Spicy collection.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.fr. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.

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