Lin Catania by Ettore Sottsass. White stone pilasters that emerge from the black background of the lava base with decorations of flowers, cherubs, and even the heads of fantastic creatures. The Baroque in Catania scatters capricious brushstrokes of beauty on the palaces and churches of the historic center, suggesting fleeting shadows and sharp contrasts to the photographic language of black and white. A beauty capable of making you forget, at times, the first impact with the city that could surprise you, seeing even the historic center cloaked in neglect and cluttered with rubbish on the street corners. A special moment to visit Catania? From February 3 to 5, when the Feast of Sant’Agata explodespatroness of the city, the third most important religious festival in the world. Great participation for the procession, day and night, of the vara with the bust containing the relics of the Saint and the candelore of the various guilds carried on the shoulders of the faithful.
The courtyard of the central building of the University, in piazza Università in Catania. Photo of Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
The designer’s eye on the city
An exceptional guide to visiting the city are the over 100 photographs of the exhibition My Catania! by Ettore Sottsassexhibited at Ursino Castleuntil 21 May 2023. Discover the designer’s shots after descending via Etnea, starting from Giardino Bellini, passing by piazza Stesicoro to overlook the Roman Amphitheater, and from piazza Università where you can admire the central in the shape of a cloister, until you reach Piazza Duomo, where the Catania of princes and that of fishmongers and greengrocers on the road coexist side by side.
The double soul of Catania
Both souls of Catania, the noble and the popular one, attract travellers. Around 11 the Pescheria, in piscaria, except on Sundays, it is in full swing. Now frequented more by tourists than by citizens, “besieged” by restaurants and clubs that invade the alleys with tables, the ancient fish market resists gentrification, indeed it imitates it by strategically placing seats for street food under the Arches of the Marina, i.e. octopus salad and grilled artichokes. But before letting yourself be tempted by the local specialities, you can witness the spectacle of open-air buying and selling which is repeated every morning, always the same and always different.
From Piazza Duomo at the corner of Via Garibaldi, passed the Fountain of Amanano, called water or linen, here’s a comfortable seat in the front row: the long railing overlooking Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto crowded with fish vendors. Then you descend into the crowd and reach Piazza Pardo, where the fishmongers display the catch of the day on the stalls.
In the beating heart of the ancient market
The Pescheria of Catania, Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto. Photo of Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
Sicilian street food at the Pescheria
Between emptyi.e. the calls of the vendors, and the kaleidoscope of colors and scents, don’t put off buying the most useful souvenirs in the kitchen: at the Pescheria you are in the right place to buy bags of oregano and Bronte pistachio grains or flour, to give to gourmet friends. Want a quick lunch break? The fried fish wrapped in straw paper parcels or the salted cod sandwiches are irresistible Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab (Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto 7, sciroccolab.com).
A fish seller at the Pescheria in Catania. Photo of Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
Welcome to the prince’s house
Leaving the Pescheria, and following the Archi della Marina, get ready for a change of scenery: after a few meters you arrive below Palazzo Biscari which exhibits sumptuous French windows on the facade facing the sea, a triumph of the Baroque. The palace, still largely inhabited today by the descendants of the family, hosted JW Goethe on 3 March 1787, who recalls his meeting with the Prince and his coin collection in I travel to italy. The guided tour (palazzobiscari.it) opens the doors of the jewel of the Catanese Baroque to tourists, an amazing residence where you can stroll between the glittering gold ballroom and the jewel-scaìa. The landlord prince? Today he responds to the name of Prince Ruggero Moncada, and sometimes tells visitors amusing anecdotes about the family and the palace.
A baroque balcony in Catania. Photo of Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
The culture show
Behind Palazzo Biscari is the Palace of Culture (via Vittorio Emanuele 121) which integrates the remains of the former Monastery of San Placido and the oldest ones of the Platamone palace. It has undergone numerous renovations, but late medieval remains are still visible in the loggia, which overlooks a small balcony that seems set against the background of the large courtyard, which can be visited free of charge like the temporary exhibitions it hosts.
The terrace of the Palace of Culture. Photo of Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
Among the treasures of King Frederick’s castle
You can reach it again along via Vittorio Emanuele Piazza Duomo with in the center or liotruthe lava stone elephant statue, symbol of the city, passing through the beautiful Piazza Mazzini, you arrive at the severe and majestic Castello Ursino (Piazza Federico II di Svevia) with circular towers. On the ground floor, it houses the Civic Museum with the precious archaeological finds collected by the Biscari princes and hosts, until 21 May 2023, the exhibition My Catania! set up with photographs by Ettore Sottsass
The photographic exhibition “My Catania!” by Ettore Sottsass, set up at the Castello Ursino Civic Museum in Catania.
Lampi di Sicilia, between desire and nostalgia
. «We learned many things from Catania and Catania and we miss many of them and perhaps just to be able to always return Ettore continued to take pictures, to adjust, clarify, ensure openings and limits. Many things, on the other hand, remain and perhaps will always remain unknown or unknown. Ettore would be happy – so we all hope – with this exhibition at the stupendous Castello Ursino Civic Museum. I therefore want to think that it is also well received by all its happy inhabitants, from Etna to the sea, from Palazzo Biscari to Tondicello della Playa. This is also an exhibition of affection», wrote Barbara Radice, journalist and life partner of Ettore Sottsass in the catalogue.co-curator of the exhibition. Vintage “private” shots that capture, with sharp black and white, the faces and places of the two souls of the city. An exciting review for the most curious tourists of the places already visited and an author’s suggestion for those yet to be discovered: via Crociferi and the former Benedictine monastery.
Walking on a movie set
Via Crociferi, from the Arch of San Benedetto to via di San Giuliano, with the parade of 18th century churches on the stairways, is a perfect film set. In fact, some scenes were filmed here last December The art of joydirected by Valeria Golino, TV series based on the novel of the same name by the writer from Catania Goliarda Sapienza. Jewel of the late Sicilian Baroque, the Benedictine Monastery of San Nicolò l’Arena in Catania, one of the largest monasteries in Europe declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco, is home to the University of Catania. Open to the public are the kitchens and cellars of the 18th century, designed by the architect Vaccarini, the sumptuous monumental staircase, the cellar floor of the 16th century now adapted to the Library of the Department of Humanities, the Roman domus visible through suspended structures, the Garden of the Novices . (Guided tours organized by Officine Culturali to visit the Benedictine Monastery: from Monday to Friday one guided tour every hour from 11 to 13 and from 15 to 17. Saturday and Sunday one visit every hour from 10 to 17. Booking: 0957102767 or on 3349242464 during opening hours, writing a WhatsApp message on 3349242464 or an email to [email protected]).
The eastern cloister of the Benedictine convent with, in the centre, the eclectic Caffeaos. Photo of Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
It’s not over. It would be a shame to end the tour and not start again… all over again! For enjoy an unhurried walk in the historic center lit up in the evening and fall in love with Catania definitively, flaws included. As happened to Ettore Sottsass.
A view of Etna, photo by Ettore Sottsass exhibited at the exhibition “Catania mia!” at Castello Ursino.
Where to sleep in Catania
Asmundus of Gisiravia Gisira 40, Catania.
Exclusive stays in a “characteristic” boutique hotel in the historic building of the same name next to the Pescheria market. It offers six 6 art rooms, each one different from the other, furnished with pieces of modern art. Panoramic rooftop on the third floor and a beautiful terrace overlooking Piazza Mazzini. asmundodigisira.com
B&B Rossocorallovia Umberto 56
Vaulted ceilings, original stuccos, period floors and the comfort of a recent renovation in the historic centre. Double room no. 4 costs 100 euros per night. bebrossocorallo.it
Where to eat
Wise Pastryvia Etnea 300
It’s worth lining up for the truly perfect arancini with meat sauce or butter. And for the unsurpassed ricotta cannoli, the best in town.
In Catania, young chefs bet on “tradition revisited in a contemporary key”. Like the new premises, reported by the magazine Red shrimp.
What to do
Do not miss the opportunity to attend an opera performance at the Massimo Bellini Theater, one of the most beautiful in Italy. On the billboard:: The Marriage of Figaro by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (February 25-March 5) e Adriana Lecouvreur by Francesco Cilea (March 25-April 2).
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