Towards closing time I walk to the counter of the museum shop to buy a booklet. The lady behind the till is counting money. Then she looks up. “No, you just stay where you are!” she shouts to my surprise and I stop. Then I see the head of a brown poodle rise above the counter – and obediently sink back again.
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A version of this article also appeared in NRC on the morning of March 21, 2022