“We’re not a trade show,” said Karen Radley, director of Scoop International, at the biennial London fashion fair, which just took place in February. “I see Scoop as a big showroom. As a designer, I have already taken part in trade fairs myself. This is different than any other trade fair I have ever been to. That’s why I created it. The star of the trade fair is the collections. “
It’s not just in this respect that Scoop really stands out. As soon as you enter, Radley’s unique approach becomes apparent. Upon entering Olympia London West, guests are greeted by sculptures of the White Rabbit from Alice in Wonderland before entering the building to the sounds of “We’re Painting the Roses Red”. To top it all off, there is a large ruby slipper in the middle of a colorful flower arrangement, next to which some eccentrically dressed employees enthusiastically welcome the guests – a very special experience for those of us who otherwise only know the usual trade fair procedure.
The theatrical performances reflect the season’s overarching theme: “A Return to Wonderment”, a mix of quintessentially British lifestyle and humor that does not refer to the current times, but rather provides visitors and exhibitors alike with a sense of much-needed escapism . The theme continues into the exhibition space, with Art Deco furniture and opulent gold chandeliers adorning each aisle.
In contrast to the much larger trade fairs, there is a clear curation among the 200 exhibitors, a conscious decision by Radley: “The word ‘fashion’ is changing. I have to adapt to the current market needs and I think the trade fair reflects that “Everyone would like to offer premium collections, but that’s not what the market wants. At Scoop, I try to offer what retailers want.”
Why physical retail still matters
This smaller format was new for the Dutch brand Yaya, which is already present in 31 countries. It is more important to her to satisfy her customers than to prioritize operational goals and financial tasks. Participating in Scoop for the first time marks the brand’s overall return to the trade show scene, having intentionally retreated during the pandemic and instead choosing to invest its money in other ways of serving customers – particularly in the physical retail space.
Despite all the turmoil, for Yaya, physical retail is still the most important channel and the only one she wants to reach at Scoop. “We really believe in physical stores because we don’t just sell a product, we tell a story,” said Tamara Gitgel, the brand’s international sales manager. “When you make this decision, you have to be strong. We see websites as unfair competition for existing businesses. So when we start commercial discussions, we always say that retailers should sell our story.” And although Gitgel was initially skeptical about taking part in the scoop, she said she was surprised by the outcome. Many new customers from the British and Irish mid-price segment, where Yaya is based, have come into contact with the brand, as have existing customers.
This assessment of the retail market is also shared by Radley, who said that although online retail used to boom, it now appears to be stagnating. “We’re seeing stores opening again. People are going to department stores again, especially in London. And we’re seeing the rise of independent stores.”
The brands Blank and its smaller sister Conditions Apply were also represented at the trade fair. Blank previously exhibited at Pure London before the brand moved to Scoop, where it is now a regular presence. The trigger for the change was a shift in the offering on Pure, which no longer matched the brand’s target group. At the Scoop they were “welcomed with open arms”. So much so that the brand even dressed the fair’s employees in its silky kimonos for this season. It is this physical presence that continues to be important for the UK-based and Indian-made labels, for whom brick-and-mortar is the most popular form of sales.
Even if there is a clear preference for brick-and-mortar retail, the general uncertainty is still noticeable. Zoe Baldock, head of sales for the brands, said: “It’s a lot safer to shop. Maybe it’s because retailers are going back to the things they know, or they’ve just become a bit more conservative. We’ve found that “When people go back to the things they love, they can still buy those things with confidence, which is great for us because we know there’s something that works for them.”
Brexit remains a hot topic
While the shift towards a more positive view of physical retail is of course welcome and brings a refreshing sense of relief after recent years of doubt about the state of Britain’s high streets and subsequent closures, the state of the UK economy has been a concern for many of those exhibiting Brands still a fundamental concern. In this regard, a representative of Diega, a Parisian label in the premium segment, said that unlike other international trade fairs, trade fairs in England have difficulty upgrading their fashion offering, mainly due to the financial problems of smaller retailers in the region.
“I think the event is beautiful and important. It’s exactly what London needed. It’s a good insight to see collections and find out what other people are doing,” she further said of the fair before found that, similar to Zoe Baldock, there was also a certain shyness felt among the buyers. “For example, if you’re sitting in a shop in the north, you know your customers and their limits. At the moment it’s just about survival. This trade fair is great for smaller boutiques that may not be able to afford to go to days-long appointments London. If you could sum it up in one word it would be ‘realism’. If we want a high street, everyone has to be realistic.”
In contrast to the United Kingdom, Diega’s representative said, the French government is much more financially supportive of its brands and their development abroad. She added: “The French government is amazing because they support their fashion and help ensure that it is present at all the trade fairs. The French fashion association has supported many French brands so that they have access to different markets. It’s really about that “To get more recognition. Everyone has to find their little gap in the market.”
It is also clear that, in addition to the affinity for physical retail, one of the key challenges remains Brexit, the process of which is now entering its fourth year. Diega’s representative confirms that this topic continues to dominate discussions with brands and buyers. Many discussions begin with the question: “Are customs duties included?”
The obstacles brought about by Brexit are a major problem even for brands that are well versed in the UK market. Like for Yaya, which has been operating in the region for 15 years. Nevertheless, Gitgel said: “[Der Brexit] was really complicated to be honest. We are constantly dealing with VAT and who is the best place to ship with. But we persevered. We have taken on some of the pain of customers not paying VAT and are trying to find a way to help customers in the UK.”
Trade fair returns to pre-Brexit levels
Another brand that expressed concern about the current Brexit developments was the Danish knitwear label Americandreams, but this did not stop the brand’s creators from continuing to expand their presence in the UK. Although the label is already familiar with Scoop, having previously participated as part of an agency, this was the first time it had exhibited alone. In this way, the label wants to secure a stronger foothold in Great Britain and Ireland. And as it expanded into overseas markets, the brand’s creators placed great emphasis on finding a trade fair that met their needs.
The label’s managing director and founder, Cecilie Villadsen, said: “At Scoop we have been very busy. In the UK we want to build ourselves in the same way as we do in the US, which means we are looking for solid stores that support our brand like us. There was a mix of physical and e-commerce retailers, lots of nice shops that are also very good online. It’s mostly people from the UK. Last time it was very international, but This time it’s much more local.”
Visitor numbers reached pre-Covid season levels, but while the influx of visitors is always a welcome sight, Radley also places great emphasis on visitor selection. “We have the increase [der Besucher:innenzahlen] already noticed in July, but this season is really already above pre-Covid levels, which I’m very happy about. We are very careful. We could double the number of visitors, but that will be heavily controlled. We stop people who we think don’t fit the Scoop audience and the designers really appreciate that.” Buyers from Liberty London, Fenwicks, Harvey Nichols and Stanwells were among those in attendance, but also international department stores such as Galeries Lafayette, Le Printemps and Le Bon Marché.
The show is still aimed primarily at British and Irish retailers, but its international reach is increasing and is now around 25 percent of visitor numbers. Interest has particularly increased from exhibitors and buyers from North and South America, regions with which Radley says it would like to build stronger connections. When asked what to expect for the next edition, Radley, who is known for keeping all scoop details under wraps until a few days before its events, said the following: “There are only two of us who have the topic “I want the show to be bigger and I have a lot of ideas for next season that are pretty exciting. It’s something to look forward to.”
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk.