Bottega Veneta on Saturday presented the first collection under Matthieu Blazy, the Belgian designer who was appointed creative director following the sudden departure of Daniel Lee late last year.
Blazy, who previously worked at Martin Margiela, Celine and Calvin Klein, has overtaken the brand, barely continuing the aesthetic that has made Bottega Veneta one of fashion’s most sought-after brands.
A new beginning
There was less streetwear, no mud boots or subtle triangles instead of logos like those used to be seen on garment pockets and on accessories. Gone are the chunky Intreccio bags, like the padded Cassette and slippers, which became big sellers and boosted Kering’s sales to 17 billion euros by 2021. Bottega Veneta is responsible for 9 percent of the French group’s turnover; a pressure that a new creative director no doubt feels.
Blazy renewed the brand and pushed it forward. Like Bottega Veneta bags, which Blazy described as things to take anywhere, the collection was full of movement. The opening look’s white vest and jeans were illusory and made from the softest nubuck leather, allowing Blazy to showcase the craftsmanship and know-how of the brand’s ateliers from the start.
Everything revolved around leather, both in men’s and women’s fashion. Jackets were mostly double-breasted and generously cut; Pants straight and flared, longer at the front, as if they were made for long strides. Skirts were straight with fringes at the hem. While leather can appear heavy in photos, these pieces were lightweight and tailored with plenty of room to move.
Colors and prints showed up in the form of knitwear and dresses; the former in cropped variants of crewnecks and zip-up inlays, the latter in patchwork and beaded variants. In menswear, a black and yellow wool coat, worn over a herringbone suit, stood out.
Most interesting were the accessories and whether they will continue the surge that Bottega Veneta has enjoyed over the past two years. The woven knee-length boots were gorgeous and came in a wide range of textures and colors. New shoe styles like platform boots, mary janes, and pointed wedge heels are likely to sell well at retail. When it came to bags, there was a lot that was new in the form of woven leather, but the star of the runway was a burgundy cushion bag.
This translated article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk.