Every year as Black History Month draws to a close, the inevitable question arises as to whether the fashion industry has reverted to its white-centric status quo after February and cleared its conscience for another year. To paraphrase the irony of comedian Chris Rock in 2015, “Black History Month is the shortest month of the year and the coldest — just in case we want to do a parade.” The brevity of February is particularly unfortunate given the magnitude of the mission, which is to recognize BIPOC’s historic contributions to American culture and industry and to promote BIPOC-led companies.
The tradition began with Black History Week in 1926 and was started by historian Carter G. Woodson and the Association for the Study of Negro Life and History. February was chosen because Abraham Lincoln and Fredrick Douglass’ birthdays fall on February 12 and 14. Black History Month is believed to have been first introduced by black faculty and the Black United Students at Kent State University in 1969, but it was not until the United States Bicentennial celebrations in 1976 that the celebration was officially extended to one month.
What is questionable is whether companies are using Black History Month for profit, much like they do with June’s Gay Pride, by selling branded merchandise intended to appeal to the emotions and identities of marginalized communities without actually supporting them. But it is also sustainable. An overview of some of the fashion industry initiatives from this Black History Month provides a good foundation for the future and may even be a gauge of progress – if we remain vigilant.
Levi’s offers a positive example. The company supported the work of two community partners, Black Futures Lab and Live Free, by donating $25,000 each in February. This is part of the company’s overall effort, which according to its website ensures that 51 percent of the organizations it supports are BIPOC-led, while 53 percent of the company’s donations go towards advancing BIPOC’s equality goals. The Levi Strauss Foundation also provided $2,861,000 in FY21 to promote justice in the areas of social justice, HIV/AIDS and Covid-19.
The international impact of Virgil Abloh, who died unexpectedly in November, will continue to be felt throughout the industry. The Brooklyn Museum is planning a major retrospective of his work for Off-White and as artistic director of Louis Vuitton this summer. Abloh’s mere presence as a black American designer in a European luxury house made history, but he had already founded the Post-Modern Scholarship Fund and was the first patron of The Black Curriculum, founded in the UK in 2019, with the aim to mainstream black history into school curricula. Proceeds from the just-released capsule collection, approved by Abloh’s family, will go to The Black Curriculum.
Fashion companies support equal treatment
Rent The Runway shone the spotlight on Black luxury labels like South African brand Thebe Magugu, minimalist jewelery maker Soko, which connects Kenyan artisans with the fashion industry, and Autumn Adeigbo, who explores her Nigerian roots through prints in limited-edition, ethically-made pieces.
Nike has tied the launch of a new Air Force 1 collection, which has been a Black History Month tradition since 2005, to the announcement of a national social justice grant. While the shoes are designed by Black designers and inspired by the flags of Caribbean and African countries, the US$140 million Black Community Commitment – with which the multinational invests in organizations who advocate for social justice, educational innovation and economic opportunity for black people – be life-changing. This year’s recipients include Son of A Saint, All Star Code and Big Brothers Big Sisters of America. The company’s website states that Nike is also raising an additional $2.75 million in 44 organizations in cities including New York City, Los Angeles, Chicago, Portland, Memphis, St. Louis and Boston invests.
“Nike Inc. is committed to moving the world forward, breaking down barriers and building community to change the game for everyone,” said Karol Collymore, Senior Director of Inclusive Community for Social & Community Impact. “Our Black Community Commitment embodies this belief and demonstrates our commitment to black equality.”
With Black History Month in the rearview mirror, it’s now up to us as consumers, employees and employers to follow the goal and reconsider that our favorite brands or the companies we work for aren’t just opportunistic make annual statements, but engage at both the macro and micro levels to make equality and inclusion a reality on a day-to-day basis. Only then will Black History Month not appear so short.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ