Until January 12, 2024, the most innovative companies in the field of biomaterials were presented at the Biofabricate Summit at the Fondation Fiminco industrial site in the Romainville district of Paris, giving new meaning to the term “fashion”.
The fashion industry has been pilloried for several years, exacerbated by the Covid crisis. What is the reason for that? Their business model, which is based on the fast pace of trends, no longer fits an environmentally conscious society. Faced with this dilemma, some advocate second-hand goods, others advocate carefully considered purchases, and still others plunge into experiments that still smell of oil. Suzanne Lee from the USA, the founder of Biofabricate, presents the Solution that could turn the tide: biomaterials.
The Brooklyn, New York-based visionary, passionate about art and biotechnology, chose Paris – or rather, Romainville, a place unfamiliar to the usual fashionistas – after a previous conference held in London, to host this first European event Opening of the Biofabricate Summit. Here she introduced trendsetters who are able to revolutionize fashion consumption, but not only that.
“My goal here is not for the exhibitors to sell their products, as they would at Lineapelle or Première Vision, but for them to get to know partners, including investors or future employees.” , she says in an interview with FashionUnited. Why Romainville? “Because before it served as an artists’ residence (Fondation Fiminco), this place housed pharmacology researchers. That’s what makes choosing this location so meaningful,” adds Lee. Why France? “Because it is the land of luxury. Despite the distance, the opening of the show on Wednesday, January 10, 2024 will be a crowd-puller, including teams from LVMH, Kering (show partner), Chanel and others.”
Biomaterials are particularly interesting for luxury brands such as Balenciaga and Gucci because they can create a positive cycle
But let’s not kid ourselves: the inventions presented here are intended primarily for the luxury goods industry, which has the financial means to experiment with this type of technology. And they will remain that way unless public or private investments are made soon.
In a separate room, the Kering Group is exhibiting items made from biomaterials. Balenciaga’s ‘Maxi Hooded Wrap Coat’ was first shown on the runway at the Fall/Winter 2022/2023 runway in March 2022. It is made of Ephea (Sqim patent), a material grown from mycelium and represents a pure, chemical-free base. Also on display is the coat made of Lunaform (Gozen), a biomaterial obtained from nanocellulose (a natural polymer found in the cell walls of plants) and produced by microorganisms during fermentation.
For Gucci, Kering presents the “Rhyton” sneaker and the updated “Horsebit 1955” bag. Both accessories are made from Demetra, which consists of up to 77 percent plant-based ingredients (viscose, cellulose pulp and organic polyurethane). “As a group, we are committed to developing new solutions and transforming our business model to achieve our sustainability goals,” commented Marie Claire Daveu, director of sustainable development and institutional affairs at Kering, in a press release.
Biomaterials made from biowaste, natural proteins and algae or biomimicry-inspired
The Biofabricate Summit stands are spread over three floors and feature numerous experiments, including the most incredible inventions laid out on the large table in the main room.
OurCarbon, for example, is a carbon negative material made from real biowaste, starting with wastewater residues known as biosolids. The technology dries the organic materials using bacteria, then sterilizes them and converts them into a solid, stable carbon.
Using protein engineering and molecular biology, Bloom harnesses the untapped potential of abundant natural residual proteins to create scalable and sustainable next-generation fibers that are “as fluffy as cashmere, as fine as silk, and as functional as polyester,” as it says in the presentation says (FashionUnited has not verified this).
Soarce exploits the unique properties of nanomaterials derived from algae and ceramics. They improve color fastness, UV protection, fire resistance and glitter effect.
Capra Biosciences specializes in converting carbon waste into clean and sustainable chemicals. Retinol (used in cosmetics) and lubricants are the first of many products that can be brought to market using bioreactors.
Pneuma uses artificial photosynthesis to harness the cells of microalgae to create materials that sequester carbon. Their flagship product, Oxya, marks a milestone in the materials industry as a living material designed to actively capture CO2 while releasing oxygen, enabling complete biodegradability and a reduction in carbon emissions.
Particularly great progress has been made in the coloring of textile fibers with natural dyes
The Frenchman Benjamin Droguet, who conducts research at the University of Cambridge (UK), aroused the enthusiasm of a team from LVMH. His start-up company Sparxell draws inspiration from the colors of animals such as butterflies, beetles, pigeons and others to develop plant-based dyes with a metallic or vibratory effect, usually derived from metals, minerals or dyes combined with plastics .
The Portuguese company Colorifix has developed a process for depositing and fixing pigments on textiles, in which the bacteria that settle on the textiles are directly dyed. Otherwise, the fabric will naturally repel the dye if it is not chemical.
Also the company MycoWorkswhich FashionUnited recently reported on and which produces mycelium-based leather alternatives, is represented at this trade fair.
To summarize and poetize, this text is quoted, which is written on a plaque at the entrance to the large hall: “There is only one primordial nation, the single-celled organisms, which dominate all living beings thanks to the countless unbreakable alliances that they have made with all life forms on earth . We carry the living remains of the primordial worlds within us. Here lies the key to the secret of life.”
“Coming into contact with the invisible worlds has long been the privilege of magicians, oracles and shamans. Since then, scientists have become modern advocates, bringing us into contact with forbidden and exciting worlds where we discover that the vacuum is populated not only by atoms but also by an unexpected multitude: microbes. The invisible is inhabited by tiny beings with unequal powers.”
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.fr. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.