A few weeks before the start of the Danish trade fair season, the takeover of Revolver by competitor CIFF was suddenly announced. The two fairs, which have been held simultaneously in the Danish capital for several years, want to join forces to further strengthen Copenhagen’s reputation as a fashion city during the fair season. During the early February edition of the fair, the two fairs are not yet officially together, but it is a hot topic among the brands and visitors in attendance. On the fairgrounds one can discover clues as to how the fairs are preparing for the future.
In the summer of 2022, there were already rumors about a collaboration between CIFF and Revolver at the Danish exhibition center. There was talk of neighboring venues or other far-reaching collaborations. The collaboration is also exactly what the brand new CIFF Director Sofie Dolva requested. Speaking to FashionUnited, Dolva pointed out that the fashion industry needs to work more together to shape the post-pandemic era. At the time, the new director did not reveal that she was hinting at a large-scale merger.
Beauty celebrates its premiere at the CIFF
In the summer of 2022, Dolva announced a possible expansion of the CIFF to include beauty and lifestyle. She kept that promise with this edition. “By showcasing Scandinavian beauty brands and new lifestyle brands, we enable a more holistic approach to the concept of fashion and ensure that buyers, press and consumers experience a more open, inclusive and contemporary show,” said Dolva in one Notice of the fair.
A separate hall in the Bella Center event location, where the CIFF has been held for years, is dedicated to the beauty area. Around 20 ‘clean beauty’ brands – cosmetic brands that do not use controversial ingredients – are gathered here, all with sophisticatedly designed stands. While the stands of the fashion and accessory brands are sometimes large and bulky, the beauty stands bring a breath of fresh air to the trade fair concept.
Heidi Maltby, skin expert and founder of skincare brand Smuk, enjoys meeting industry peers at the show. Their presence at CIFF is mainly to try out the show, which is true for any brand in the cosmetics space. She understands that the fashion fair is expanding into the beauty sector – after all, retailers have been doing it this way for several years. “I sell 50 percent of my products to pure beauty retailers and the other 50 percent to fashion retailers,” she told FashionUnited. Beauty products are a nice little thing that fashion retailers’ customers can take away for themselves or as gifts for others. It also enriches the experience in a fashion store when beauty products are also on offer.
Raaw Alchemy’s Monique Macutay is hoping to attract some big buyers. “Big names like Net-a-Porter are on the list of visitors to CIFF. That would be nice.” In the run-up to the fair, the brand contacted several companies to discuss possible arrangements, but this did not always go smoothly. “Another beauty fair that our brand attended in Bologna had a booking system , which allowed you to book appointments with buyers. That would be handy, but maybe that’ll be possible next season.”
The cosmetics brand Nuori was invited, among others, by Sofie Dolva, who worked in the cosmetics industry before joining CIFF. The brand doesn’t have high expectations and sees the show more as good PR for retailers and others to get to know the brand.
In the lifestyle area, there are already several brands that are represented in the various halls. This includes the Design Letters brand, which offers accessories in addition to household goods. The lifestyle brands are not in their own area, but surprise visitors as they stroll through the aisles.
Merger of the Danish trade fairs CIFF and Revolver: Will the unique identities remain?
Way CPH’s Marie Schøyen thinks it’s a good thing that the CIFF has more segments. “You can tell the atmosphere is different. Good things are happening and I am also very excited about the merger of CIFF and Revolver. Fashion is no longer just clothes – it’s now a holistic approach,” the brand’s founder told FashionUnited. The sentiment expressed by Schøyen is shared across multiple stands at CIFF. Fashion brand Notes du Nord is returning to CIFF after a several-year absence “We find the vision for ‘CIFF 2.0’ very interesting and it fits us perfectly as a brand,” CEO Rasmus Oreby said in a statement. “We particularly appreciate the introduction of the beauty segment and see how it complements the fashion brands – also from a purchasing perspective.” The cooperation, be it between fashion and beauty, be it between Revolver and CIFF, is therefore well received at the latter fair A stronger Danish fashion industry is seen as something positive, but if you ask around at Revolver you will also hear other voices.
Revolver takes place at several locations in central Copenhagen. For example, some of the brands are in the Øksnehallen and some are in the Forum. Shuttle buses will operate between the venues, which for the first time will also travel in the direction of CIFF – a first physical manifestation of the collaboration between the two fairs. Several exhibitors at Øksnehallen expressed concern about the merger of CIFF and Revolver. They fear that the unique atmosphere in the Øksnehallen – a more than 100-year-old building where cattle were once kept – will be lost as a result of the merger. Admittedly, the Bella Center, which has housed the CIFF for years, has less atmosphere than the Øksnehallen, but the latter are relatively small and quickly become crammed with brands, leaving no room for expansion. The atmosphere at the Revolver Fair feels more like a younger and more modern cousin of the CIFF.
Jewelery brand Hultquist Copenhagen says they have heard all brands will be moving from Revolver to the Bella Center next summer. However, official plans for the new concept have not yet been announced by the organization, so people are mostly waiting at the stands with curiosity and tenseness.
Curiosity reigns at Dutch brand Fabienne Chapot, which is also located in the Øksnehallen. The brand has always been at the Revolver and sees it as a successful trade fair. “Everyone is curious about the new set-up,” said Silvia Tuitman, global sales manager for the brand. She doesn’t think it’s crazy that trade fairs are looking for a new way in the current trade fair landscape. “I hope above all that the trade fairs, if will continue to exist, become more intimate and affordable for young brands. We all need each other.”
Attentive visitors will also notice that there are labels that are represented at both CIFF and Revolver. This includes ICHI, which has its own permanent showroom in the Bella Centre. Even after the two trade fairs have been merged, the brand will be retained at both locations. “People come into the showroom who already have an appointment, but here at Revolver we actually find new customers who come in and are drawn to the collection.”
There is another reason for Liberté Essentiel to be at both fairs this time. “Last summer CIFF wasn’t good for us, so we decided to go to Revolver in the winter. Only then was the merger announced and so we decided to have a stand at CIFF as well. This is in case everything happens at the Bella Center next summer. Then we hope that this will give us a better place at the fair.”
CIFF and Revolver are preparing for a future together
While the exhibitors were all informed about the merger by letter, the message has apparently not yet reached all visitors. Surprised reactions can still be heard in talks with several buyers, but actually everyone is positive about future cooperation. “If the fairs could possibly be held next to each other or closer together, that would be very convenient for us. We have so many appointments in one day that it would help if the venues were closer together.” But it’s worth repeating: Exactly what the organization is planning is not yet known.
Looking back from the future to the present, both the CIFF and Revolver appear relatively calm in this winter edition. The first day at the CIFF begins calmly, and it stays calm for the next two days as well. It’s already full at Revolver and the first day in the Øksnehallen in particular was well attended – but the days that followed are slow to get going. The reason for this is difficult to determine. For now, we’re keeping our fingers crossed that the summer edition and the new concept will attract more curious people to Copenhagen.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl.