Angelika Rainer, feat on the Escalatamasters | Gazzetta.it

Angelika Rainer returns to the Sports Festival after five years. In 2018, the Merano native recounted her legendary career as an ice climber – three world titles between 2009 and 2013, the World Cups in 2012 and 2015 – and the projects carried out outdoors, but always in winter and with equipment of winter. This time, however, she talks about the recent turning point in her activity, which saw her as the protagonist at the crag. Last March, in Perles in Catalonia, the 36-year-old from South Tyrol climbed “Escalatamasters”, grade 9a. Only six women in the world have gone further (9a+ or 9b). “It was like returning to my old love,” Angelika says. As a girl I loved climbing outdoors, then I followed another path but at a certain point, once the competition period was over, I felt I had to return to the crag. To do so, however, I had to convince myself, I told myself that I could dare, and I relied on the advice of a coach who was a world champion, Patxi Usobiaga. I looked for a route that had already been climbed by a woman, which gave me peace of mind, and I got to work.”

Confidence and tiredness

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The ascent of “Escalatamasters” took place on March 9th, after an initial study period in October 2022. “In autumn I picked up some tips from the Finnish Annaliina Latinen, who explained to me how to overcome certain passages. I understood that that route was suitable for me and that I liked the place, a fundamental requirement for me. In winter, upon returning home, I prepared myself physically for the effort that awaited me, I gained confidence by climbing an 8c+ at Arco di Trento, a grade that I was missing, and I returned to Spain with confidence, so it took me 11 days to complete that 80-move route.” After the feat came the joy, but also the backwash of tiredness. “Climbing such a difficult route is not like winning a race, where they give you a medal straight away and the next day you wake up and see it there on the bedside table. In this case, satisfaction comes little by little, day by day, thinking back to what you have done, the path that was necessary, but above all thanks to the messages of compliments that have come to me from old friends and colleagues. I was so excited that upon returning to Italy I immediately went to Arco to find a new project, but I took a beating and realized that I was tired. I returned home to my mother, I was pampered, I ate and slept, after a month I resumed training but unfortunately two tendinitis, in a finger and an elbow, limited me. Now it’s better”. Enough to get back on track this winter with a more ambitious project? “Not yet, I think I need to stabilize the level before increasing the rank. And then I’m thinking about going back to doing something interesting on the ice.”