Lhe American traveler Mary Crawford, in some of her writings in 1909, told of benefits of the mountain for a womanhighlighting some of them in particular: self knowledge, confidence in one’s abilities and discovery of new worlds and new perspectives. Confirmation of these words can be found in the book Mountaineering is a whole world. Conversation with open cards (published by the Italian Alpine Club CAI – Editorial Operations Center, 2022) written together with Linda Cottino from Silvia Metzeltin with which he won the fortieth edition of Gambrinus Prize “Giuseppe Mazzotti”.
Born in Lugano to a German father and mother originally from Pula, Metzeltin is geologist, researcher, writerradio host, but above all an explorer: and with her husband Gino Buscaini it has reached the furthest peaks on the planet.
So who, better than one pioneer of this sport and of first woman to join the Italian Academic Alpine Clubcould you tell us what it feels like up there on the highest peaks?
Silvia Metzeltin: «It happens for every autonomous practice in nature»
Does Metzeltin also think like Lopez Marugan?
«I think so too, although a lot has changed since 1909. Every autonomous practice in nature, especially the mountain one, opens up new horizons, develops self-esteem and self-confidence. Even a trip organized and carried out on your own usually already favors a personal evolution. However, I distinguish the methods of travel in general from those of practicing the various forms of mountain attendance, especially from the demanding ones which, even when of moderate technical difficulty, still involve physical performance with adequate preparation. I believe that in this case the possible development of the psychic qualities mentioned by the traveler usually reaches higher levels, also due to the management of a greater degree of unforeseen events and of the risk that is at least implicitly faced».
Silvia Metzeltin and Helma Schimk in Alaska
How did you start practicing this sport and how did it become a great passion?
«I was born and raised by chance in Lugano, in a cultured, nature-loving family, with many walks in the surrounding area and swimming in the lake since I was a child. Hence my familiarity with natural environments and the taste for discoveries. Among the books in the rich family library I immediately spotted those on travel and adventures and the mountains of the Pre-Alps within reach of a bicycle soon ignited my enthusiasm. Escapades with two companions of the same age, readings of mountaineering feats and a desire to emulate a growing passion, which became decisive when it seemed to me that life had nothing better to offer me. Today I can say that the choice of passion turned out to be the right one».
When mountaineering wasn’t for women
You went mountaineering at a time when women weren’t allowed much yet. Was she a rebel?
«Yes, I was and still am a rebel, above all in the sense that I have a visceral need for autonomy, to think and act according to personal criteria, to oppose perceived or suffered injustices, which also led me to make mistakes, fortunately forgiven by fate. In a certain sense, I am self-taught by nature and by choice, even if after graduating in Geology there was a confluence of multiple activities and interests in a sort of social marginality which, in retrospect, seems constructive to me. However, this did not prevent me from a long happy life as a couple».
Inequality within a passion is harder to fight
First woman to join the Academics of the Italian Alpine Club in 1978, how did it happen?
«The mountains themselves do not differentiate between males and females, but the human environments of mountaineering do. Feeling marginalized and unrecognized for ascents carried out only as women is particularly humiliating in the case of a gratuitous passion that is constituting an existential horizon. It is also demeaning in the world of work, but in that one can fight and defend oneself on the basis of law, while in the context of pure passion there are few means to undermine established social schemes. I have tried it several times, also to obtain admission for women to an elite section of the Italian Alpine Club (CAAI), which was successful only after mortifying diatribes. Let’s say, to paraphrase Simone De Beauvoir, that feminists are not born but made”.
And how did she find herself in a purely male world?
«Let me say that I actually like many things in the world that the social scheme considers masculine, certainly not war but others, various professions and adventure activities, including mountaineering. Mechanics and engines too, even though I love writing and poetry. The model of life considered suitable for women has never attracted me, quite the contrary. I simply didn’t want to be excluded from the male one; I don’t accept not being able to even put myself to the test of participation with commitment, only for social or legal custom”.
Silvia Metzeltin on the highest peaks around the world
Protagonist of numerous feats on the highest peaks around the world, have you never been afraid?
«I have always tried to minimize the risks, many times I have given up on continuing. In nature, even alone, I feel at ease, I’m not afraid. In activities of free choice such as mountaineering, dangerous situations must be taken into account and tried to manage them. Instead I don’t like the metropolis and I stay away from mass gatherings, they make me uncomfortable. My human relationships are preferably elections of friendship, which, moreover, reduce existential fears».
The biggest challenge
At first glance it may seem that the greatest challenge in mountaineering is reaching the summit. But is it really so?
«Mountaineering is a complex cultural movement, which can be placed between the Enlightenment and Romanticism. Physical performance is essential, but in the context of exploration, adventure, research, history, literature; in this set, the main historical goal has been the achievement of a peak. However, with the current prevalence of the athletic-sporting aspect, the challenges have diversified and can also consist in the style in which to carry out a climb».
Always fighting for women mountaineers
She has always stood out for the public support given to women mountaineers, for the behavior of solidarity between mountaineers and for the defense of freedom of access to the mountains. The first two are clear, the last not so, what is freedom of access to the mountains?
«For various reasons, mostly mercantile or military, or with religious or ecological motivations, there are restrictions or bans on access to the mountains all over the world. Sometimes ascents are granted for even exorbitant payments, as for example in the Himalayas and Karakorum. These are certainly complex local situations, amplified by the problems of mass tourism. On the other hand, I believe that climbing a mountain without commercial purposes, for the pure pleasure of going there, is part of human rights: one returns enriched by one’s experience and one does not take anything away from anyone. Therefore it is a fundamental freedom of movement to be defended, upstream of any other opportunistic consideration”.
Silvia Metzeltin: «Too many forgotten women’s businesses»
She wrote the book to remember the incredible feats of some women who, as happens in other fields, whether it’s science or art, are always forgotten. A forgetting of names that indicates what in your opinion, given that we need to talk about real businesses?
«In our book we have reported the experience of daily obstacles of female mountaineers with a strong passion that I have known. There is no mention of ascents, only some technical indications. Oblivion? Often the women themselves have hidden their businesses, just to avoid social and family misunderstandings, and this also leaves aspects of their personalities in the shadows which are then interpreted by strangers by manipulating a reality unknown to them. I think that this historical need to emerge from the silence by saving live biographical memories could also be valid for other female activities, but for mountaineering it is evident».
It annoys men to give up being heroes
Why doesn’t mountaineering seem to do without the label of activity for men?
«Because it is difficult to lose privileges, even those of private personal reference, of self-esteem in comparison with the social context. If a man feels belittled when a woman performs the same as hers, he defends himself by belittling even what previously seemed exceptional to him. “A woman did it too…” the climb has already lost its value. “Even a pregnant woman made it” … worth even less, then it has to be tried again, naturally forgetting what is expected of pregnant women in the fields and in the factory, and perhaps in one’s own family. Giving up feeling a little “heroes” isn’t easy. But I recognize that many women are fine too if the man plays hero and they, the women, don’t. Thus mountaineering remains “masculine” in the same vision as women».
«Girls take the reins of your passion»
What message would you give to today’s mountaineers?
«To today’s young women I would like to tell them not to reduce mountaineering to a simple, albeit fascinating sporting gesture, or to merry group outings. Mountaineering is a form of culture, it offers many other opportunities that complement each other, which also gratify the less sportingly gifted, which adapt to the needs that change over the course of life. Claiming the right not to be excluded a priori, not letting yourself be intimidated or influenced, and taking control of your own passion for going to the mountains: this is my wish».
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