Zero waste is a hot topic, but AlphaTauri proves with its precision 3D knitting technology that it also produces incredibly beautiful fashion. Red Bull’s brand extension has teamed up with Japanese company Shima Seiki to bring their precision printer to the European market. In one hour the machine knits a premium seamless sweater for the conscious, discerning consumer. It’s lightning fast, like the Italian Formula 1 team of the same name itself.
From code to yarn
It’s not the first time the 3D knitting machine has been used. What is new, however, is the way AlphaTauri presents the technology to the consumer. Today, sustainability is an issue that a brand can be proud of. And the premium knitwear from AlphaTauri is anything but boring and stuffy. That’s why the Salzburg headquarters opted for a transparent strategy in which technology plays a key role in the sporty, high-quality brand story.
It’s about the WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, an invention of Shima Seiki. How does this work? “With codes,” begins foreman Ahmet Mercan, “which, in conjunction with the software, determine where the yarn is. We also use them to build in special functions, such as movement adjustment.” Thanks to this program, the machine can knit sweaters about one and a half meters wide in one piece, that is, completely seamlessly and with almost no excess fabric leftovers.
It is even possible to have an order made to measure – i.e. with exact, personal measurements. The machine is built for this type of precision work. “Personally, it reminds me of a piano, with all the hundreds of needles going up and down,” says Mercan. Customization is still exclusive at the moment, but AlphaTauri is working on a virtual tool that will soon be used to create consumer measurements can be taken from afar.
Tech-savvy design
The different designs range from classic to sporty and are made of luxurious, comfortable fabrics such as fine cashmere and merino wool. In addition, technically sophisticated elements are used. Tighter and looser fits do not alter the comfort of the sports jerseys, thanks to a ‘Motion Fit’ technique that avoids uncomfortable friction during action moments. “It adapts perfectly to the body, but also allows enough freedom of movement,” explains Mercan. Another sports technology is Airflow, a special, breathable and ventilated mesh fabric.
The AlphaTauri ropes therefore go through a strict technical design process in which all steps have to be translated into software language. Once that’s done and large-scale production can begin, that work will start to pay off. The degree of precision is very high, which is not the case with traditional versions. In fact, it’s a more or less automated process, very reliable – like a professional tailor, but on a large scale.
Double durability
AlphaTauri makes fashion at lightning speed, but it’s definitely not fast fashion. “The biggest advantage of our ‘proof of concept’ is definitely that there is no waste,” explains Mercan. “The machine only uses the amount of yarn that is needed for the product. We have no material waste and that makes the yarn great efficient.”
The quality and fit of the knitwear also contribute to a sustainable vision of clothing.
When you offer products that fit perfectly on the body, consumers don’t feel the need to throw them away either. I think I’m the best example myself: I’ve been wearing this 3D knit for four years now and when I wear a different sweater I see the difference. This is due to the comfort – the merino blend feels like a second skin, but I also notice that the seams irritate, for example. This one looks elegant, but you can also wear it sporty. You really have to feel it to understand it.
The machine was already around in the late 1960s, Mercan recalls. It’s about shifting from an efficiency tool to a way to scale sustainable, high-quality fashion design. This is also very interesting for designers who want to experiment with fashionable performance clothing. They can go as far as they want, because the limits of the machine are as far as those of the computer program. Even designing different layers is possible. “Each piece looks like a sci-fi piece,” says Mercan. “It doesn’t seem like anything special from a distance, but if you step closer, you realize someone really thought about it.”