When Diesel designer Glenn Martens opened Milan Fashion Week last Wednesday amidst a mountain of 200,000 Diesel-branded Durex condoms, it seemed the stage was set for a libertine and sensual Milan Fashion Week. Instead, however, most designers in the Italian metropolis exercised restraint. The most outspoken of fashion cities this season has blossomed into a hotbed of pragmatism, reality and wearability – albeit with a touch of sex.
While last season was marked by designer debuts and realignments, many brands used Fall Winter 2023 to refocus on what really matters: wearable clothing for everyday wear.
The concept itself shouldn’t come as a surprise, but amid TikTok trends and media-savvy spectacles of the past few years – a spray dress at Coperni and Schiaparelli’s couture lions – “ordinary” clothes almost seem like a revolution.
Modest fashion in times of inflation
“My main concern now is to give meaning to the humble, to appreciate humble, simple professions and not just extreme beauty or glamour,” Miuccia Prada told media representatives after Prada’s show on Thursday, which marked the anniversary of the Russian war of aggression against Ukraine. Since the beginning of the war, the world has changed noticeably and fashion is also shaped by inflation and the unpredictable economic and political situation. Now the situation seems to shape the catwalks and future retail spaces, because in uncertain times few people seem to want to flaunt their disposable income on their own bodies – at least that’s the theory of Prada and co-designer Raf Simons.
Visually, the desire for modesty and restraint was expressed in uniforms of all kinds – military jackets became modern parkas, dresses were reminiscent of the work clothes of nurses and wedding dresses became everyday wardrobe in the form of white skirts – both minis and wide, ankle-length dresses A-line – with floral appliques. Less uniform-inspired than a standard office uniform, the designer duo also offered pantsuits and blazers with detachable, oversized collars, which already caused a stir at the brand’s menswear show. In addition, simple sweaters with a round neckline in camel and anthracite.
Fendi designer Kim Jones also created “real clothes” for his autumn/winter 2023 collection. For this, the designer was inspired by an equally “real” woman, Fendi offspring Delfina Delettrez Fendi. The style of the jewelery designer and mother is said to be Jones’ Parent company LVMH said they were particularly inspired by the choice of colors – blue and brown – and the “deconstruction of feminine sophistication” with a touch of fetishism and punk.The result: a range of menswear-inspired monochrome officewear, knitted tops with asymmetric cuts -Outs, silk dresses and lingerie, and skirts reminiscent of school uniforms over dress trousers.The collection is both simple and sophisticated, reflecting the type of woman that Fendi represents under the direction of Jones.”It’s about real clothing: the Italian, sophisticated Woman you know goes global,” Jones told Vogue.
Max Mara not only focused on the famous camel coat, but also on the woman who wears it. In search of modernity, Max Mara designer Ian Griffiths traveled back to the 18th century and was inspired by the French philosopher Émilie du Châtelet, Max Mara announced on Monday. The resulting collection “Camelocracy” consisted mainly of knitwear in warm tones. The historical references could be discovered above all in the styling. Elbow-length gloves—of both knit and leather—met with a shoulder strap incorporated into dresses, which Griffiths says was a “styling trick” used by soldiers in the military. Following the Autumn/Winter 2023 show, the designer told UK newspaper The Guardian that his collection “enhances the beauty of the wearer and is designed with the comfort and convenience of the wearer in mind”.
All good things come in threes and Matthieu Blazy’s third collection for Bottega Veneta is proof that familiar and wearable fashion doesn’t mean unspectacular, let alone boring. The starting point for Autumn/Winter 2023 was the street, a place where people of all kinds and all facets of life meet. The 81 looks were as diverse as the inspiration. From loungewear looks with socks made of knitted leather, to oversized wool sweaters as dresses and leather jeans with a tank top, to elaborate evening dresses, Blazy presented a collection for every situation.
Reality meets excess – sex is still a blockbuster
The mood, which is unusually reserved for Milan, could be related to Versace’s absence. The Italian luxury label around designer Donatella Versace presents its FW23 collection on March 10th, two days before the Oscars in Los Angeles, where some ladies are sure to fall back on the brand’s sensual designs. But even if realism and pragmatism set the tone in Milan, excess and sex – even without Versace – are by no means forgotten.
Diesel embraced sex positivity, not only with the Instagrammable condom mountain, but also with a collection that lived up to Diesel’s modified slogan, “For Sucsexful Living.” Models have never been less dressed and encased in head-to-toe denim. Y2K, complete with low-rise hipsters with see-through cutouts and sheer tank tops, dominated the red runway. There were also crystal-studded dresses and distressed denim in the form of jackets, trousers, long skirts – a trend that was also reflected in sheer, “ripped” dresses made of silk.
Elsewhere, Blumarine, under the creative direction of Nicola Brognano, continued to focus on ultra mini skirts, skinny dresses and crop tops that will find particular traction on TikTok and Instagram. Brognano remains true to his vision for Blumarine and his customers, while many designers this season – at least on the catwalk – seem to be refocusing on a more mature target group, away from Gen-Z.
Gucci, on the other hand – still without the chosen creative director Sabato De Sarno – is somewhere in between. The collection, put together by the in-house design team, was practical, maximalist and sexy at the same time. There was a little bit of everything, crystal mini bras, sweetheart faux fur collars on coats, black shift and slip dresses, oversized suits that wouldn’t look out of place in any office, and simple boyfriend jeans with button-down shirts . Many looks were reminiscent of Tom Ford’s era as creative director of the Florentine fashion house, a horse-bite bag from his time was also revived, and yet no specific direction was apparent.
Sensitive or sexy, it will be De Sarno’s job to work that out once he takes the reins at Gucci.