A changing market for wearable men’s fashion

In Alec Leach’s book “The World Is On Fire But We’re Still Buying Shoes” the former fashion editor advocates rethinking limited-edition collaborations, micro-trends and short-lived pop-ups and instead making meaningful purchases that leave a lasting impact on our lives. “In the hype era, clothes are not products you own, but moments you spread, that you share on Instagram for 24 hours,” Leach writes. “Sometimes they’re there, sometimes they’re not – they’re more like memes than Products. But unlike memes, clothes leave a lasting imprint on our planet.”

Aside from fast fashion and meme-inspired looks leaving an environmental footprint, it’s also important to address the never-ending identity crisis of vulnerable consumers who don’t know where to turn style-wise when faced with them every week a new aesthetic is presented. In short: Viral clothing is a thing of the past. Long live wearable clothing.

With “-core” tacked on to the end of every fast-moving trend, consumers are looking for pieces that give them a solid foundation. These simple but by no means boring basics focus on long-lasting design and upscale classics that are considered evergreens. Bundled wardrobe starter parks and gender-neutral sizing provide the opportunity for thoughtful garments with a tailored, expandable approach. By prioritizing seasonless style and practical functionality over passing trends, sustainability is becoming fashion’s most important influence.

Consumers are collectively seeking refuge from a more chaotic world

2023 brought with it a troubled economy, an ongoing climate challenge and, of course, a polarizing conflict in the Middle East that has continued into the new year. Consumers are collectively seeking refuge from an increasingly chaotic world, and the clothes they wear play a big role in that. No, that doesn’t mean it’s heading back to the safe confines of the earthy gray sweatpants and wool sweater, but it does suggest a pretty provocative idea for 2024 and beyond – a fashion reset that’s effortless, casual and free from the pressures to be conspicuous. The brands will emphasize the joy of wearing clothes by encouraging men to prioritize classics and comfort when choosing new styles.

The elusive fashion designer Damir Doma recently launched a new label called DIOMENE to counter the industry’s constant need for something new. His desire to bring timeless design into the world reflects the increasing “less is more” mentality of some consumers. “I wanted to create clothing that was stripped down and freed from the pressure of just being new. This is about purity, quality, comfort and sustainability,” said a statement when the brand launched last year.

Tiredness of trends and the desire for classics

The tried and tested fashion cycle that people could rely on for so many years has finally collapsed. With consumers around the world having equal access to style and design – which is a very good thing – the cultural playing field is more level than ever before.

The speed at which things change has led to an overarching trend fatigue that has spread to consumers in an age where aesthetics are disconnected from their native subcultures and algorithmically driven microtrends spin at hyperspeed. Armed with greater access to information, today’s educated consumers are becoming increasingly critical of fast fashion and craving a meaningful conversation about personal style that is authentic and lasting. Not only that, but the archetypal “hypebeasts” of the late 2010s are evolving as they mature, leaning toward formality and placing more emphasis on masterful design details and craftsmanship. As niche streetwear brands like Aimé Leon Dore, Fear of God, Noah and Kith diffuse into the more mature mainstream, their customers are turning to champions of tried-and-tested classics and putting them on a par with brands like Drake’s, Ami and Beams Plus – all stylistic brothers of good taste.

Of course, most people wanted a version of the Roaring 2020s when the pandemic was over. After living in athleisure for more than two years, people definitely wanted to dress up. The more unusual and dandy-like, the better, because you found every opportunity to dress up and show off. All-over logos exploded after living in the background for so many years, and inspired by Alessandro Michele’s reinvention of Gucci, men played the roles of Renaissance grandmas, Oscar Wilde and everything in between. But after countless seasons of dubious, quiet luxury came the call for a new world that longed for blue-blooded sophistication and trendless charisma. Certainly the success of the HBO series “Succession” had a lot to do with the desire to look subtly wealthy, but it also signaled a coming move away from TikTok absurdity.

Brands like Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli have long prioritized fabric and fit with their $2,000 cashmere sweaters and their focus on durability. As ‘Stealth Wealth’ moves away from meaningless pop culture and points towards this new world of wearable, expect to see an increased appetite for clothing and accessories that are as close to perfection as possible – fashion for everyone, at all times and in every place. Indeed, there is a new “nine-to-nine” consumer who desires adaptability and convenience from morning to night as they incorporate more and more moments of leisure into their increasingly flexible lifestyle. This clothing is just as comfortable when changing jobs as it is on the way to a game of volleyball or to brunch.

Moments of classic luxury, romantically transfigured with European flair and a charming perspective, can be expected for autumn/winter 24/25. There is a unique personal aesthetic to this outlook that is equal parts modern and traditional – highly curated but with a delicate nature and an appreciation for cozy intricacies with a rich history. Men’s fashion continues its journey into a new era where softness, sensuality and fluidity are welcomed. It is not necessarily banal or bare, like the earlier version of ‘Stealth Wealth’ or ‘Quiet Luxury’. Rather, it is a seasonal era that will endure for seasons to come and emphasizes classics and good taste. Note dramatic outerwear in appealing colors, textured and openwork surfaces, and a permanent shift toward silhouettes that are relaxed and comfortable. It’s a welcome and refreshing departure from everything new and current, with the result that it feels cool and contemporary.

This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk