C.we all fall into false myths, into those “hearsay” maybe by chance, from friend or mother, which end up becoming very personal truths in our skincare routine or in daily skin care. A few examples? We tend to believe that it is necessary to change products often before the skin gets used to it. We always pay attention to the synthetic ingredients on the labels, taken from green and clean anxiety (also) in skincare.
Beliefs and myths about skin, skincare and cosmetic products are addressed, step by step, from cosmetologist Marilisa Franchini, aka La Beautycologain his new book Skincare – Truth and False Myths released on February 23.
“Skincare, truths and false myths”: the book to really get to know cosmetics
The cosmetologist Marilisa Franchini has dedicated an entire chapter of his new book to the relationship between skin and false myths, unmasking some of the “beauty legends” most famous and which have spread in recent years around the topic of “leather”. Finally clarifying even the thorny topics.
Skicare Truth and False Myths is the new book by Marilisa Franchini released on February 23 (Red! Editions)
1. Do silicones suffocate the skin?
So let’s start with the much pointed out silicones, demonized because they are believed to be derived from petroleum. “Error. In reality they are obtained from silicon, one of the most present materials on Earth. For example, it is also found in the composition of the sand »explains Marilisa.
“These are occlusive ingredients that maintain natural epidermal hydration because they create a protective film that prevents the water from evaporating from the surface “the expert begins to explain.
Not only, “being inert they are actually safe and degradable, that is, thanks to UV rays and carbon dioxide, they naturally degrade in the environment in water ». Did you know?
«They hydrate the skin indirectly, that is, they do not bring water to the skin, but prevent it from dehydrating. They reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the surface, a phenomenon that in technical language is called TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) ».
«The term” occlusive “in the common imagination has a negative meaning: it can actually make you think of something that clogs the skin and makes it suffocate, clogs the pores leading to the formation of imperfections and pimples. But this nThe risk of “occlusive substances” is not”Which actually creating a semi-waterproof film on the skin by retaining water. This is how petroleum jelly and paraffin work or the silicones themselves and also natural ingredients such as beeswax, shea butter, lanolin and squalene. Therefore, silicones are not the absolute evil! ».
2. Does the skin get used to a cosmetic and become “lazy”?
False! As the expert explains, “the epidermis does not get used to it because it is renewed every month so you can continue to use the same cosmetics “. However, it is true that the needs of the skin can change, so a product used until recently may no longer work well.
In the same way, it is not true that the skin becomes sluggish: «It is argued that applying a cream to the skin does not help it because it would” settle down “and stop working and performing its functions. This is not exactly the case.
It is true that the skin alone is capable of producing moisturizing substances that rebalance dehydration where it is needed. But this it is not valid in the case of particularly dry skin, for examplebecause if the epidermis has problems in this sense, she is not able to self-supply what she needs, and therefore the cream becomes indispensable. And, in general, the cosmetic is still an extra help “concludes the expert.
3. Are natural ingredients better than synthetics?
INCI stands for International Nomen-clature Cosmetic Ingredients, that is a kind of language used internationally to draw up the list of ingredients of cosmetics. THEn Latin the active ingredients deriving from plants, botanical extracts and ingredients present in the pharmacopoeia are usually indicated, in English, instead, synthetic substances.
“It is another great theme and a false myth of recent times,” explains Franchini. “THEn a cosmetic, both natural and synthetic ingredients may be present; the latter are made in the laboratory from the synthesis of a molecule and not necessarily they are harmful, dangerous or less effective in a formulation than natural ones ».
What does it mean? “That synthetic molecules can sometimes be even more sustainable and environmentally friendly, without compromising their function and effectiveness. Natural does not necessarily mean better than synthetic. Simply, the origin changes ».
4. Preservatives in cosmetics. Yes or no?
Probably the attention for preservative-free cosmetics arose from the fact that in the food world, fresh products are preferred, without preservatives, able to keep the organoleptic properties at their best.
«The question arose when some brands began to emphasize that their products do not contain preservatives. However, the difference between cosmetic and food preservative is fundamental: in cosmetics, the preservative is used to keep the product safe, which unlike a food product, can remain open at room temperature for months. Preservatives therefore serve to slow down or stop bacterial growth inside“.
Not only that, it must be clarified that all cosmetic products that contain water in the formulation must – by law – have preservatives.
“They may not be present in oil-based products, butters or powders, even if brands tend to prefer to include them because they can come into contact with the water itself. For example, when you wet an eyeshadow to change the coverage ». Harmful? “No, even if they were, they couldn’t be used.”
«Furthermore, often one cannot do without it for the safety of the formula itself. You can certainly choose substances that are most respectful of the skin, which can create allergies less easily. In addition to the formulation ».
5. Are SLES and SLS too aggressive?
“Yes and no. Or rather these surfactants, used in the production of detergents, shower gels and shampoos, perform a very degreasing function, which is why it could create problems for sensitive skin “.
To remedy the problem, «It is better to be careful in choosing more delicate surfactants, and therefore less degreasingalone or in combination with the more degreasers SLES and SLS, which soften the formula making them therefore suitable for even the most delicate skin ».
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