FashionUnited met Iris van Herpen on the occasion of the opening of her exhibition “Scuplting the Senses” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. We wanted to know how she manages to maintain her creativity, continue her research and what couture means to her. She answered with precision.
How do you maintain your creative freedom?
Iris van Herpen: Architecture gives me a lot of freedom because it is an art form, and I see fashion as an art form. The most important thing was to create my own creative DNA and stick to it. Not having too many people influencing me. We must evolve fashion by mixing traditional craftsmanship with innovative technologies.
How do you approach the creation of new materials?
I work with professionals in the fields of biology, science, art and architecture. They bring new insights into the field of fashion. This is crucial for me.
How do you raise funds for this research?
The money comes from our couture clientele, for whom we create bespoke designs. Our customers come to our studio in Amsterdam or to Paris for the fashion show. This is a nice and clear financing system.
Who buys your creations?
I have a diverse haute couture clientele that comes from Europe, the USA, Asia and the Middle East.
How long does it take to design an Iris van Herpen outfit?
That depends on the models. Some people order simple dresses that require a month or two of work. But other, more complex ones take four or five months to design. We also make wedding dresses.
How much does an Iris van Herpen dress cost?
Our prices start from 35,000 euros and up.
What status does your company have?
I am completely independent.
Do you receive government or other support to help you with your research?
No not at all.
Do you want to remain independent?
Yes definitely.
How many people work for you?
The company employs around thirty people. This number increases for the preparation of the show. This number also increases due to my external collaboration (outside the studio).
You have also done ready-to-wear before. Why did you stop?
I won the Andam Fashion Award in 2014, thanks to which I received mentorship from Kering. This allowed me to design ready-to-wear collections for three seasons. But actually I’m focused on developing my own materials and techniques. This is very time-consuming and cannot take place in my own studio as part of the ready-to-wear clothing.
Sustainability is also important to me, and that’s one of the reasons why I preferred to focus on haute couture. I think that fashion needs to change to a more conscious way of working in the future. Working in couture allows me to focus on new materials.
Biomimetics, cymatics, morphogenesis, 3D technology — in which areas do you find your new inspiration?
My influences come from many things: nature, architecture, art, dance or even music like the music created for my exhibition (“Sculpling The Senses” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, editor’s note) that visitors imagine :can be heard throughout the entire tour. Music is an important part of my creative process. I try to be receptive and sensitive to all signs of life around me and to connect couture with the world we live in.
What do you think about artificial intelligence?
Oh, that’s a big topic, do you have several hours to spare? (laughs). I’m just curious. I’m experimenting with this technology, but not from a creative standpoint. I think that artificial intelligence can be interesting for finding solutions to emerging questions. At the same time, I’m also afraid of the hands it could end up in. It is a very powerful tool and can be used for important tasks.
Do you really believe that couture the way you make it can change our ecosystem, which is characterized by fast fashion and unequal purchasing power?
Couture goes far beyond that and functions similarly to paintings displayed in a museum. Artworks have an influence that goes beyond the buyers. This way everyone can see my works in my exhibition and understand my work. But you can also discover them online or through books. Couture is not just an item you buy. Couture shows where art comes from and where fashion can go, the relationship between our history and our future.
In this dimension, craftsmanship is a very important element, as is innovation. The creation of fashion always begins with couture and continues into ready-to-wear fashion with larger brands customizing it.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.fr. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.