Collaborations always have a place on the fashion week runways, and this also applies to the Spring/Summer 2024 collections. Big-name brands have come together to present a range of special pieces for the shows, either in the form of eye-catching accessories or whole looks. FashionUnited has rounded up some of the most memorable collaborations from New York to Milan.
Erdem x Barbour
Kicking things off is London, where two of the city’s most important fashion brands came together for a handful of catwalk looks. Canadian designer and London Fashion Week regular Erdem Moralioglu presented his eponymous brand’s SS24 collection, whose looks were designed in collaboration with traditional British brand Barbour. Two pieces shown on the runway were inspired by Barbour’s traditional wax jackets, the silhouette of which was transformed by Erdem into a trapezoid shape, complete with quilted lining and patched remnants of floral drapes.
Although the collaboration initially only featured two looks, Barbour’s head of womenswear, Nicola Brown, hinted in her post-show statements that more are to come. “Erdem’s timeless and timeless approach to craftsmanship and quality is synonymous with Barbour, and we are excited about the start of what I believe will be a long friendship between the two brands,” said Brown. The collaboration builds on Barbour’s growing number of projects, including collections with Maison Kitsuné, House of Hackney and Baracuta.
Palomo Spain x Bimba Y Lola
Now it’s off to New York, where Spanish brands are setting the tone for this season’s accessory collaborations. Palomo Spain returned to the Big Apple to present its SS24 show, which continued its gender-neutral approach to clothing and deepened the connection to its folkloric origins. However, a standout element of the show was the series of bags carried by the models that bore the words “Bimba Y Palomo.” The pieces were part of a collaboration between Palomo Spain and his Spanish colleague Bimba Y Lola. The duo presented several co-designed accessories as well as some complete looks, contributing to what they described as a “coherent dialogue between their respective universes.”
A statement from the two companies said the collaboration aims to “create a shared space in which both brands can communicate effectively and naturally integrate their communities.” For Palomo, for example, it was a chance to explore a new territory that focuses on women’s fashion, an area to which Bimba has always been dedicated through its characteristic feminine design codes. The collaboration will be available on the two brands’ respective websites and in selected stores from mid-October.
Mulberry x Stefan Cooke
British accessories brand Mulberry and luxury designer Stefan Cooke have collaborated on a collection of bags made from second-hand materials. Part of The Mulberry Exchange program, the limited edition featured 27 pieces redesigned by the brand’s artisans, including archival classics and “rare treasures.” The pieces were presented during Stefan Cooke’s SS24 show at London Fashion Week. On the same day, Mulberry launched a pre-Loved pop-up, showcasing the collection at its Regent Street flagship.
The duo used upcycling and deconstruction techniques to rework the selection of vintage bags, highlighting their individual commitment to circularity and sustainable fashion. The pieces gave new life to old leather by incorporating both Cooke’s own design codes – bows, loops, braids and slits – as well as Mulberry’s signature hardware and finishes, with each piece embellished with a motif from the co-brand.
Knwls x Jean Paul Gaultier
This season, too, two major players in the fashion spectrum collided with each other and deviated from their usual paths when it came to design. Ahead of fashion month, Jean Paul Gaultier revealed that the brand had partnered with Knwls for a new collection, with the duo only unveiling the collection later in the month. Each piece incorporated references to the two brands’ archives, using recognizable tropes that ultimately came to a head in the “pièce de résistance,” a hand-crocheted corset.
This look took center stage at the Knwls SS24 show finale and was worn down the runway as a sign of collaboration. Screen-printed leather and crochet paneling reference Knwls’ signature construction techniques, while corrosion features reflect Jean Paul Gaultier’s design principles.
Faith Connection
A show that has always been dedicated to the concept of collaboration is that of Faith Connexion, a Parisian fashion collective of designers and artists who have come together to offer a “selective yet stable wardrobe.” This season, the collective collaborated with designers Fannie Schiavoni, Ronald van der Kemp, Kriba and Baobab to create a line of youthful clothing ranging from bodycon dresses to sportswear-inspired looks, using a variety of materials such as Lace, tulle, metallic mesh and shimmering nylon combined.
British designer Fannie Schiavoni brought her signature mesh metal to the line, adding it to bralets and panels on dresses to contrast with the flowing silhouettes they were paired with. Ronald van der Kemp embarked on a similar mission for his own collection, opting for mesh fabrics and lace to add his own touch. Kriba was behind the extensive corsetry and nods to androgynous fashion, and Baobab’s signature swim and resort wear influenced a number of pieces reminiscent of the ocean.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com