Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo drew to a close over the weekend; a week-long event showcasing the collections of around 50 designers. As in previous years, the event’s focus was on localization, with Japanese designers being given prominence to support the country’s industry. This also gave viewers a glimpse of the trends that are currently and will continue to define the market, which is typically characterized by traditional techniques and experimental silhouettes. This also applies to the SS24 collections. FashionUnited has examined five trends that have dominated the Tokyo runways this season.
Office wear becomes casual
Although casual office wear was a consistent trend at almost every fashion week, Japanese designers put their own stamp on the concept. Layered elements took center stage at Queen&Jack, with blazers doubled and skirts flared over tailored trousers. At Kanako Sakai, on the other hand, that nonchalance was much more minimal, as long-sleeved blazers sat over simple bodysuits. Others, like Shoop and Nano Art, exaggerated the shapes of traditional formal wear with details like elongated cuffs, mismatched collars, or knee-length hems. At El ConductorH, on the other hand, typical office accessories such as ties were used to put together a completely casual outfit.
Deconstructed sportswear
Sportswear has always been an important part of catwalks, as has the idea of deconstruction and experimentation in Japanese fashion. In Tokyo, the two were often combined as sporting goods took on distorted shapes and misshapen silhouettes in the SS24 season. Joggers were presented with flowing, flared hems that reached the floor, while polo shirts were enhanced with abstract gathers. Traditional garments such as cricket sweaters or American football jerseys have been distressed and embellished so they could also fall into the streetwear category.
Apocalypse Now
Preparing for an apocalypse has been a theme throughout fashion seasons past, and this one is no exception. In Tokyo, designers clearly had the possibility of a dystopian future in mind, evident in the dominance of dark colors and heavily reconstructed garments. Utility suits and cargo pants were shown alongside redesigned knitwear and outerwear, resulting in looks similar to those of doomsday survivors and wasteland scavengers, but with a premium, sophisticated look. This was particularly true of the pieces at Seivson, where formal wear took a disfigured approach.
Bloated silhouettes
At the Tokyo collections, if there was one silhouette that stood out above the rest, it was the puffy one. From tops to dresses to outerwear, designers favored inner-bulging bubble shapes and applied a variety of techniques to achieve the desired puffed look. Harunobumurata was at the forefront of this trend and offered a range of pieces that took this exaggerated form, with both dresses and tops being found with such a hem. Murral translated the look to sportswear, floating down the runway with windbreaker jackets with puffed sleeves and flowing materials.
Unabashed femininity
Amid the bold sportswear and exaggerated shapes, the concept of femininity was still clearly dominant in many collections. Here, the cami dress reigned supreme, taking center stage on the runway as the season’s favorite dress shape. Pastel blue and lightweight fabrics provided a stark contrast to the previously mentioned somber pieces, with the addition of sheer lace and minimalist accessories emphasizing the delicate nature of this trend. For others, femininity came in the form of flowing chiffon and boho-esque skirts that floated across the floor in a similarly graceful manner.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.