With the start of fashion weeks approaching, each fashion capital’s association has started to release its official programs which give a glimpse of what to expect from each location. Paris appears to be spearheaded by first-time exhibitors dominating French Fashion Week’s program for the season.
The preliminary program published by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) runs from September 25 to October 3 and includes 67 fashion shows and 41 presentations with a total of 108 participants. While the usual industry giants – Christian Dior, Saint Laurent and Balmain – continue to grace Paris with their presence, there are a number of notable returnees who previously skipped fashion week.
Belgian label Maison Margiela and South Korean company Kimhēkim are among those who have resurfaced, as is Carven. The French brand returns to Paris after a five-year hiatus and will show the first collection from creative director Louise Trotter, who took over the role in February after four years in the same position at Lacoste. Mugler is also back, but according to WWD, he will subtly say goodbye to his “see now, buy now” strategy of the past few years.
Mugler, Maison Margiela and Carven return to Paris
While the return of these brands portends a big event, it’s the newcomers that are creating the talking points this season. Dutch brand Duran Lantink, Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and Brit Kiko Kostadinov are among the brands taking to the catwalk, while Chinese label Caroline Hú, Australian designer Christopher Esber, Italian company Quira and Spanish label Organize Paloma Wool presentations.
Marni will also take his first steps on the catwalk in Paris. The Italian brand’s event is a continuation of the traveling shows concept launched by creative director Francesco Risso in 2021. Since then, the house has held fashion shows in Tokyo and New York. The Paris show is the third in a four-part series, according to Risso, who told WWD last year he was also considering a return to Milan for the final iteration of the concept.
New York designer Peter Do is another new name on the list. Last year, the US brand made its debut in menswear after building a solid foundation in womenswear. Do will be appearing in Paris after his debut collection for Helmut Lang was shown at New York Fashion Week in September.
French brand Casablanca is another addition to the Parisian programme, marking the brand’s first departure from menswear. In a statement, creative director Charaf Tajer explained that while menswear remains a core part of Casablanca’s DNA, “the womenswear category is a natural evolution.” The brand will therefore present both men’s and women’s fashion on the Paris catwalk, in what it described as “a new and exciting chapter for the brand”.
Australian designer Christopher Esber is also set to make his Paris debut this season, having attended New York Fashion Week for the past few years before becoming a fixture at Australian Fashion Week. Esber has established some status since launching his eponymous brand in 2010, having won the L’Oréal National Designer Award, the regional Woolmark Prize and Vogue Italia’s Most Talented Designer Award for Australia-Pacific. That year, the brand was also nominated for Designer of the Year for the Australian Fashion Laureate.
No shows: Ester Manas and Off White
However, there are some familiar names that are missing from the program. This includes Ester Manas. Founders Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre explained in an Instagram post that the “strategic pause” reflects a “commitment to investing in the future.” The duo, who received the 2023 Andam Fashion Awards special award, continued, “By shunning the catwalks, we also underscore our unwavering commitment to taking the time we need to create sustainable collections and products.” Brand now turns to an expanded collection for March 2024.
Off White is also missing, but the reason for this has not yet been announced. The brand, originally helmed by Virgil Abloh, named Ibrahim Kamara as the late designer’s successor in May 2022, tasked with carrying on Abloh’s vision. A change at the label was also evident in June this year when Cristiano Fagnani was appointed as the new CEO, succeeding New Guards Group co-founder Davide De Giglio.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.