Florence shines for the new season. Despite ongoing difficulties that continue to concern the fashion industry, the mood at the men’s fashion fair Pitti Uomo was quite positive.
The industry is happy to finally meet again. Pitti Uomo is particularly important as an international platform, according to Windsor Managing Director Jan Mangold, who has been exhibiting with the clothing supplier at Pitti Uomo since last season.
The Pitti Uomo 104 was held under the motto “Pitti Games” and so some exhibitors also used the approach and integrated playful elements into their concepts, including a ball pool and a basketball court.
“The mood is very strong. People were looking for a platform to exchange ideas. But that’s actually what everyone here reflects on us,” said Benny Jandl, Chief Sales Officer at German clothing retailer Drykorn. “We want to start talking again, we want to meet physically and exchange ideas and a trade fair is irreplaceable for that. That will become even more important in the years to come.”
According to trade fair organizer Pitti Immagine, 825 exhibitors and around 12,000 visitors – more than 40 percent of them from abroad – attended the current edition. Compared to the 2022 summer edition, around 20 percent more international buyers and five percent more Italian buyers were there this week. These figures are intended to show the fair’s recovery after the pandemic and that Pitti Uomo is gradually heading towards pre-crisis levels, said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine.
newcomers
But also this season some brands like Drykorn and Scotch & Soda celebrated their return and others their premieres.
The South African menswear label Chulaap showed a small presentation on Tuesday, in which designer Chu Suwannapha straightened and styled the looks as in the photo shoot. Suwannapha was happy to be there and got a lot of positive feedback, he said.
Tobias Schellenberger, owner of the German trouser specialist Rossi, was also delighted with his trade fair debut and plans to return next season. Rossi also seemed to inspire an international audience with his performance and so the representatives were in talks with various buyers – including even from Japan.
Everton McDougall traveled from Toronto to present the slippers from his Haus by Everton brand to an international audience. It is only the second collection of the brand, in which the models with intense colors like purple, colorful patterns and thick soles stand out.
Sport meets fashion
Sportswear continues to be on the rise and is increasingly mingling with fashion.
Swimwear brand Arena collapsed with Woolmark for merino wool swimsuits and also showed some pieces to be worn outside the pool – including t-shirts, sweaters and vests. Meanwhile, there was fashion for cycling enthusiasts from the PH Apparel brand, which, in addition to cycling, now also offers styles for casual cycling in the city and without a bike.
But not only the sportswear brands tried their hand at clothing, clothing suppliers also experimented in the sports sector. The sustainability-oriented brand Ecoalf presented its new line for yoga, biking, running and surfing. Italian brand Herno, outfitter for FC Barcelona’s formal wear for the 2024/25 season, incorporated headbands into some looks. Windsor presented its first Summer Wool swim trunks, created in collaboration with producer Reda Active.
From the American Dream to the high seas: The Pitti trends
Brands have not only relied on swimwear, but have also been inspired by the sea. Of course, nautical styles with blue-striped shirts and boat shoes — as seen at Italian brand Paul Shark — always play a key role in summer beach vacations. However, brands also dreamed of the high seas and the adventures of seafarers. The Italian brand Germano showed pants with a ship and anchor print. Chulaap also brought ships to items such as suits, shirts and pants. For the brand, the entire collection was themed around the sea, so it also featured a bag in the shape of a fish, an octopus belt and large hats with feathers reminiscent of pirates.
The accessory of the season is the scarf. Whether as a classic look with a suit like Walker Slater, as a playful version like the colorful prints by Petronius1926 with chilies and lavender or as a casual streetwear look with a wide shirt, basketball peaked cap and jeans by Karl Kani, it can be used anywhere. Retro looks with loose knit shirts like Drykorn and Italian brand Cruciani were also popular.
This season Pitti Uomo once again wowed visitors with a guest designer and a special show. The Italian fashion house Fendi presented its menswear collection in its new factory in Tuscany and the US brand ERL from Eli Russell presented Linnetz on a neon green catwalk a silver-grey, sparkling collection with a look of the Statue of Liberty in New York and large hats as seen in Uncle Tom.
