The Fall/Winter 2023 catwalks were filled with looks that turned underwear into outerwear. It’s official, lingerie is moving from the lingerie department to the prêt-à-porter fashion shelves. But why?
Lingerie on the rise
In order to understand what is at stake, one must first define the context in which the underwear wardrobe prevails. Behind the enthusiasm of established brands and emerging talent for lingerie is “the ideas of women’s independence and liberation,” says Patricia Maeda, Head of Womenswear at Fashion Snoops Prospecting Agency. “In today’s society, women’s rights to freely dispose of their bodies are under threat. The repeal of abortion laws in the US is just one example. The woman’s body is constantly observed. Revealing it on one’s own authority and thus winning it back into one’s body becomes an important act of emancipation in order to free oneself from rigid patriarchal structures.”
Fériel Karoui, trend consultant, confirms: “Today, showing lingerie is more sensual than sexy. There is a lot of talk about selfwear; you emancipate yourself from the famous ‘male gaze’ to look at yourself with confidence and love… for yourself!”
This is how the “new sexiness” trend was born, a concept that in recent seasons has stripped bodies in favor of lingerie. According to Fériel Karoui, this sensuality no longer has anything to do with the era of porn chic or even with seduction. It brings new products and styles with it.
No-pants: tights and panties
“The no-pants trend seen at 16Arlington, Ferragamo and many others creates the illusion of a no-pants look through mini dresses and cropped shorts,” says Patricia Maeda. In addition, he draws attention to young, contemporary collections. Briefs, short shorts and transparent tights or leggings should therefore be included in the range in the coming seasons, but their promotion should be done in an inclusive way, the expert points out: “[Sie sollten] making sure women feel adequately represented, supported and accepted through the communication channels and marketing campaigns (…) I think it’s important for brands and retailers to destigmatize lingerie by encouraging women to dress how they want it.”
“No-Pants” were taken to extremes by Italian label Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week H/H23. The emphasis was on embellished panties and thin tights pulled up to the waist. Sexy silhouettes that were counteracted and made wearable by heavily covering tops – hoodies, down jackets or cardigans.
Layering: micro bra, bralette and corset
“From a product perspective, bras, bralettes, bustiers and bodysuits are the most important layering options that fit under blazers and dresses,” says Maeda. The luxury brands Prada and Jacquemus offer their bras in the tops and t-shirts categories of their online shops and present them as layering items.
While the trend towards “no pants” seems to be limited to the catwalks, the trend towards bras or corsets as tops has already arrived on the streets. “Fashion is changing mentalities and the bandeau-brassière worn under a transparent top and jacket is becoming increasingly popular on the streets of the capital, as is the camisole top worn with well-fitting jeans,” says Fériel Karoui.
This season also sees the return of another lingerie product in outerwear: the micro bra. In line with the Y2K trend, this minimalist piece reflects the modern notion of lingerie as “an ode to oneself, a body accessory, an object of reward”, as Karoui puts it.
Lace and playing with transparencies
New Sexy is also the fusion of the materials typical of lingerie with the prêt-à-porter segment. This could be seen in the form of more or less transparent babydoll-style dresses, which were shown at Simone Rocha, Anna Sui and Gucci. Tops made of satin and with thin straps were also more common on the catwalks: 16 Arlington, Bottega Veneta and Y/Project had them in the collection.
While these underwear-inspired silhouettes are a counterpoint to the classic sweatpants and hoodie combo that’s become a habit for many since lockdown, they share something in common: they evoke the intimacy of home and blur the line between indoor and outdoor wardrobe.
“It’s an addition to the look, offering pieces that are already there. They are put on the same level as t-shirts and tops,” says Fériel Karoui. It is a lifestyle vision of clothing, where the products are designed less in silos and the experts work together. It’s good news when you look at the return of lace and how it’s strengthening arts and crafts professions – and maybe it can even revitalize professions.”
This article was published on FashionUnited.fr. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ