Stccording to scientific studies by the Ruhr University of Bochum, i hedione perfumes they would activate “the areas of the brain connected to emotions, pleasure and libido”. The first of all to use this molecule were the laboratories Dior in 1966, introducing it in the Eau Sauvage fragrance, to date among the most famous of the Maison. But what does this molecule consist of – unisex – and where to find it today?
Perfumes with hedione, a sexy (and unisex) molecule
«Used for over 50 years in olfactory compositions, the hedione molecule – o Methyl dihydrojasmonate – fu created by a Firmenich chemist in 1958 with the aim of obtaining an ingredient that was easier to produce and less expensive than Methyl Jasmonate, constituent of jasmine isolated a year earlier by the same chemist» he begins to explain Roberto Drago, creative director of Laboratorio Olfatto and co-founder of Kaon.
Used in both men’s and women’s perfumery, the first master perfumer to use this note in an olfactory pyramid was Edmond Roudnitskawhich he inserted in 1966 a percentage (3%, ed) of hedione in the iconic fragrance, Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior.
Billie Eilish in the campaign of her perfume Eilish Fragrance
Hedione, a molecule inspired by the Greek goddess of sensuality
«The name hedione comes from the Greek and is inspired by the mythological figure of Eedoné, beautiful goddess incarnation of voluptuousness and sensuality. This is the reason why the fragrances that contain this ingredient are often associated with the libido and in general with a disturbing sensation of pleasure».
“AND an extremely elegant ingredient that transmits light, lightness, freshness and pleasure. Furthermore, if used well, it knows how to convey its presence, without ever becoming intrusive and disturbing» adds Roberto Drago.
The olfactory and sensory characteristics of hedione
«The characteristic of this molecule – as far as the formulation is concerned – is that of making the perfume lighter but therefore no less intense» he explains Raffaella Tarana founder by Rajani. Ribaptized as “universal transparent first note”, hedione gives freshness to the fragrance, presenting itself with delicacy. «Rmanages to create a sensory emotion and to render one more seductive fragrance».
But what does it smell like, on the nose? Hedione is a floral, transparent note, with hints of jasmine and citrus scents. It is a feeling that can be found naturally in tea, osmanthus, jasmine and bergamot. «Reminiscent of the freshest and purest part of jasmine. AND a blend of lily of the valley and jasmine with a note citronée in the lead» continues Raffaella Tarana.
A floral, citrus and fresh note
«It was his notes never heard before, floral but at the same time fresh and green, to decree the success at the time Of Eau Savage of Dior, so much so that today it is still one of the most purchased perfumes in the world» continues Roberto Drago.
Today, this molecule has become a important element of support in modern formulas to give luminosity and floral volume to fragrances, as well as being very persistent. In fact, it is enough to think that some fragrances contain very high percentages of hedione (even over 30%)».
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