In the Netherlands, Circular Economy Week took place in early February. During this week there were numerous presentations, panel discussions, excursions and workshops on the topic of circular economy. The aim of the action week was to show what circular economy can look like in practice so that the public can learn about it.
As part of Circular Economy Week, FashionUnited presents four Dutch clothing brands working towards a circular business model. None of the brands below are 100% circular yet, but the way they are tackling the issue of circular economy can provide good inspiration for other entrepreneurs. Incidentally, circular economy not only means producing responsibly or working with reusable materials, but also taking responsibility for what happens to a product during and after use. For example, can the garment be recycled and what options does the company offer for this?
scot
Skot, the brand of entrepreneurs Michiel Karssen and Ruben van Veen, specializes in shirts and t-shirts for men. The label was founded in 2017 with the aim of offering men a more sustainable alternative to conventional outerwear.
Skot is transparent about the production process of its garments on its own website. They are made from bio-materials such as organic cotton and, in the case of some shirts, lyocell and no plastics are added. However, plastics are found in the insert in the collar of the shirt. Skot uses recycled polyester wherever possible. The buttons on Skot shirts are not made of plastic but of coconut, a plant-based variant of ivory, and sustainably farmed mother-of-pearl. Skot also uses recycled sewing thread. Production takes place in Istanbul and India. The latter factory, where Skot’s t-shirts are made, uses non-toxic dyes in the printing and dyeing process.
Skot encourages consumers to return their Skot products after use by offering a 10% discount in return. For now, however, there are still steps to be taken in terms of garment recycling, Karssen told FashionUnited. Used clothing items cannot yet be made into new thread for clothing. However, the material of the returned shirts is currently being processed into other products.
Skot sells the shirts and t-shirts through its own web shop and also works with retailers on a small scale. Skot prices range from €33.95 for a t-shirt to €99 for a shirt.
new optimist
Local, social, circular: that is the credo of New Optimist. The label was founded in 2021 by Xander Slager and Nelleke Wegdam. New Optimist started out mainly with hoodies, sweaters and pants, but has since expanded its collection to include blouses and jackets as well. Prices range from around 55 euros for a t-shirt to 140 euros for a sweater. The brand has its own webshop, which will reopen this weekend. The label also hangs in over 20 stores in the Netherlands.
New Optimist uses natural, organic and recycled materials, including cotton and hemp. The entire production process, with the exception of the weaving and knitting of the fabrics and the dyeing of the garments, takes place at the New Optimist manufacturing facility in Amsterdam. The dyeing is currently still done in Germany, but over time Slager and Wegdam want to take this process into their own hands as well and work with natural rather than synthetic dyes. The garments are designed in such a way that they are easy to recycle: For example, only mono materials are used and no mixed yarns, which make it difficult to separate them later.
New Optimist will introduce a deposit system from September to encourage customers to return their garments after use. The company is in the process of establishing a recycling program so that worn garments can be made into new yarn or fabric – preferably on-site.
Vodde
Vodde makes socks. Socks for men and women, for sports, for hiking or for work. These are not just any socks: these foot warmers are made from used textiles that are sent to Vodde from collection points such as Sympany or second-hand shops. Vodde spins cotton yarn from this material. These are combined with synthetic yarns made from collected plastic and sometimes with a touch of nylon or elastane. It is used to make socks at Vodde’s factory in Tilburg.
Vodde’s process is partially circular. When the socks are worn out, the company wants to take them back, although Vodde doesn’t have a standard process for that yet. Some of the material can then be recycled into new sock yarn. This does not yet apply to another part. Vodde founder Patrick Welp is currently in talks with the University of Leuven to process the material, the yarn that can no longer be used, into filling material for insulation.
Vodde has its own online shop and also works with several retailers in the Netherlands. The prices for Vodde socks are between 7.95 euros and 16.95 euros.
Rhea
Rhea was founded in 2021 by Roos Fleuren, Hannah Swift and Bridget Cumberworth. The brand makes knit sweaters, t-shirts, dresses and trousers from merino wool and tencel, as well as shirts made from leftover cotton. Prices range from 89 euros for a sleeveless top to 199 euros for a dress. Rhea sells the clothes herself through a web shop and through the boutique ‘The Collection One’ in Amsterdam.
Rhea works with natural and recyclable materials, with wool making up the majority. The wool may come from far away and the production isn’t fully renewable yet, says Fleuren over the phone, but the goal is to have it by 2025. The brand’s production chain is transparent: a QR code is attached to each garment, which leads to information about the origin and production. The brand’s website has tips on how to best care for garments to keep them looking their best for longer. Anyone with a hole in their Rhea sweater can email the brand for a piece of darning wool and repair instructions.
Rhea takes care of its own unsold stock: Remnants from the first season have recently been integrated into a new collection. The label also has its own recycling program for wool clothing: customers can send Rhea used knitwear made from 100 percent wool, which will be disassembled in Rhea’s wool mill. Fresh yarn is then spun from the wool.
This article was published on FashionUnited.nl. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ