What is fashion? Who defines them? And where does a trend begin? With all these questions, Rossella Catapano, lecturer at the Accademia Della Moda (IUAD) in Naples, started her trend forecast as part of the Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO) on February 10, 2023.
Trend forecasting is all about colours, styles and materials and for Catapano today’s trends must take into account changing world and cultural needs. “However,” she advises, “we should consider different preferences.”
She also points out that trends have shorter and shorter lifespans – so-called micro-trends such as huge platform shoes hardly last a season. Regarding the reach of trends, she says: “Don’t underestimate social media. The speed of global information is crucial today.” This trend spawned new icons such as fashion bloggers and influencers.
Where does a trend start?
Catapano then answers the question of what defines a trend: “It’s the need to belong; the desire for conformity that leads to the emergence of fashion and social groups.” In this context, she cites gender-fluid garments as an answer to such a need.
In the post-pandemic world, Catapano reflects how homewear has become loungewear and dressing smart means feeling good. In terms of materials, this means they should be lightweight. “Men’s fashion is relevant and forward-looking here,” she adds.
Sustainability is another area that gets a lot of attention, but Catapano warns that we need to differentiate between truly green fashion and ‘greenwashing’. Recyclable fashion is a keyword here, but the industry must be careful not to just produce niche products at high prices. For Catapano, only “Vintage Mania” is truly circular. In Turkey, Catapano points to the country’s roots, which lie in craftsmanship. “We have to rediscover our roots and our craft,” she says.
Regarding predictions, “the best way to predict the future is to create it,” according to Catapano. At IUAD, that means working on a mood board to collect different images for inspiration. Then comes the research and “empathizing” with a collection. Storytelling is also an important part of the process, especially for customer engagement.
The main trend Catapano has seen is body positivity, which is sure to stay, as well as going back to basics. “This doesn’t mean imitating, but looking closely and not losing your roots,” she sums up and advises young designers in particular to do the latter.
Key trends DOB and HAKA SS24
Head of Trends at WGSN, Kim Mannino, previewed the trends that will be influencing womenswear and menswear for SS24 in a presentation at IFCO on February 9, 2023. For spring/summer 2024, the New York-based trend forecasting company predicts two key trends with various sub-trends and a key story that manifests itself in various forms. The company relies on a team of around 300 people to predict and analyze the key trends of each season.
Key trend “Protect & Connect”
“Protect & Connect” will be a central women’s fashion trend in spring/summer 2024, which focuses on a sense of community and security. The collections remain correspondingly small and focus on quality. “Less is more,” advises Mannino.
In terms of color, warm tones such as “Fondant Pink”, “Radiant Red”, “Ocean Coral”, “Nutshell” and “Apricot Crush” dominate in the range of red tones in women’s fashion, but also natural colors such as “Oat Milk”, “Ground Coffee” , “Pineapple”, “Seaweed”, “Nephrite” and “Green Fig”. “‘Mightnight Blue’ will be the darkest color, there’s no black,” says Mannino.
Women’s fashion subtopics
Sub-themes include “Emotional Minimalis” with an emphasis on craftsmanship and neutral colors. Overall, creations are made that last more than one season. Mid-summer boho surf is elevated vintage with a hint of hippie comeback, great for “using up leftovers,” according to Mannino.
‘Minimalist Resort’ is a classic holiday sub-theme, backed by ‘Joyful Nautical’ which creates a different take on stripes, for example broken ones. “We also find calming structures here,” says Mannino.
“Prepare Wear” focuses on clothing that protects against all kinds of environmental influences such as UV rays, germs and pollution. Customization is key here, with cords and adjustable features. “Kind of one size fits all, which should help with sizing,” adds Mannino.
Then there’s Earthly Luxury, which capitalizes on the fact that the pandemic has pushed people to spend more time in nature. As the name suggests, Artisanal Touch focuses on craftsmanship with a bit of embroidery and appliqué. Thrift Cult capitalizes on the rise of vintage fashion and the fact that the second-hand look is becoming more common. In addition, different colors and textures can be combined.
“Future Dressing” focuses on smarter clothes, but at the same time looser, more relaxed silhouettes. “It’s a hybrid dress that works at home but also in the office/evening, sort of like day-to-night wear,” explains Mannino.
Men’s fashion subtopics
Menswear designs also take inspiration from nature and focus on zero waste. The color palette is slightly darker. The ‘Craftwed Workwear’ sub-theme emphasizes denims and workwear, while ‘Future Classics’ focuses on a whimsical look. “Horticool” emphasizes the connection to nature, while “Outdoor Prep” takes up the world of active sports.
“Modern Nautical” combines stripes with off-white and “Natural Craft” is all about creativity. Nostalgic Retro evokes the mid-century past, channeling the pre-digital era of the ’70s and ’80s with high-waisted or flared trousers. Finally, there is Raw Luxury, which focuses on beautiful materials and textures as well as timeless pieces.
Key Trend “Sense Scapes”
The second key trend connects the natural with the technical or the physical with the virtual world. Sense Scapes will have an organic yet digital look, with bright colors inspired by the world of gaming and the metaverse. Pink Diamond, Pink Flash and Radiant Red stand out here for womenswear, supported by Mellow Peach and Parchment.
“Fresh Mint”, “Sage Leaf”, “Tidal Teal” and “Adriatic Sea” take up the blue spectrum, while “Gentle Lavender”, “Purple Swirl” and “Black” round off the color palette. In men’s fashion, the red tones include “Cyber Lime”, “Nutshell”, “Sea Kelp”, “Fondant Pink” and “Green Fig” as well as “Astro Dust”, “Italian Clay” and “Terracotta”. They are supported by “Tidal Teal”, “Adriatic Sea”, “Cornflower” and “Pineapple”.
subtopics
There are nine womenswear sub-themes and seven menswear sub-themes that follow the Sense Scapes trend: Bohemian Alchemist combines boho-chic with astrology and spirituality, but is also a hippie throwback and therefore an opportunity to use leftovers.
“Solar Punk” is a sci-fi inspired sub-theme that veers into the fantastic with intense colors and flowers inspired by virtual worlds. Scavenged Beauty features elements such as seashells, stones, minerals and crystals, and even metal and macrame. Synaesthesia unlocks sensual experiences with amazing colors and patterns, similar to Otherworldly Glamour.
‘Tropadelic Office’ uses light on dark colors while ‘Ocean Wonders’ captures our fascination with the sea with distorted tones and shadows. Serene Futurism harks back to FW23 layering, soft pastels and delicate fabrics, while Digital Dune references the desert landscape.
Sub-themes in men’s fashion are “Gaming Lounge” with bright colors, “Powered by Nature” with earthy tones, “Postmodern Safari”, “Tropadelic Office” and “Synaesthesia” and in women’s fashion “Pajama Dressing” and “Soft Function”.
Key Story: “Creative Confidence”
Creative Confidence follows lateral thinking and a circular design that translates into innovative techniques and lush and imaginative womenswear. “Life can be difficult, and this trend is all about staying as positive as possible,” says Mannino.
Statement Simplicity, Indie Glow, Illusion, Satori-all, Find Your Way, Sartorial Sports, Amped-up Retro, and Surreal Warping are the sub-themes for women’s fashion, while Men’s fashion focuses on “Main Character Energy”, “Enhanced Energy/Day”, “Vibrant Vacation”, “Nightlife”, “Redefining Masculinity”, “Retro Sport Resort” and “Pop Utility”.
Key themes of the woven tops are the peasant blouse, the wrap blouse, the denim shirt or the oversized shirt. As for the dresses, there are the wrap dress, the bodycon dress, the cut out dress, the slip dress and the modern dress for special occasions. When it comes to knitwear, waistcoats, crew necks, V-necks, turtlenecks and cardigans complete the selection.
Skirts can be wrapped, flared, short, or pencil, while pants can be baggy or flared. With blazers, light trench coats, utility jackets, commuter jackets or quilted jackets, variety is also required in this segment.
Men’s fashion includes woven casual long-sleeved shirts, denim shirts or resort and field shirts, trousers with smart straight legs, as well as soft-tailored shorts and cargo pants and chinos. Knitwear is similar to the women’s range and windcheaters, ‘shackets’, technical jackets and bomber jackets round out the selection.