back to black, back to mat: it’s time for black, opaque, intense, charming. The beauty look from the N°21 fashion show at the Milan Fashion Week AI 23/24 is a tale of one retro femininity but not nostalgic, indeed, bold. Elegant, made of lights (few) and bold shadows, sign Kiko Milan.
N°21 backstage beauty: makeup is soft noir
«Chic, iconic, decisive». The focus is a smokey eye unconventional, ultra-matte black, artfully shaded to be magnetic, yet not dense, not heavy.
It is the languid eye of the divas of the Sixties, from Monica Vitti to Sophia Loren, which also act as icons of the collection, balancing rigor and seduction. So is the make-up, signed KIKO Milan with the artistic direction of makeup artist Karim Rahman.
The protagonist, an intense yet light smokey eye, built starting from the border of the eyelid crease with black eyeshadow Kiko Milan High Pigment Eyeshadow n.54 matte Black, well nuanced.
From the halo trace, which barely intensifies, we move on to intensely defining the eye with a decisive edge of kajal Lasting Precision Automatic Eyeliner And Khol n.16, both in the upper and lower rhyme, also internally, then slightly diluted. Thus the outline is sharp, brilliant, and fades into mystery.
There is already a trend, the absolute mat: here, the highlighter is not used today. Rather the scene is gods creamy concealers, which guarantee a perfect eye contour despite the black powders. And satin, without glare, is even the skin, thanks to the foundation Smart Hydrating Foundation but with a controlled, very uniform finish. Goodbye highlighter?
The hair, Sixties-Grunge
It’s the team Toni&Guy Italy to sign the hairstyle, the looks loose dynamic, with light wrinkled volume on the top that recalls the Sixties divas and twisted lengths in one “perfectly imperfect” styling so Nineties, absolutely sensual.
«First step, create the side line and therefore a nice diagonal tuft that falls on the face, fil rouge on all types of hair. Roots and lengths are then moistened with the spray L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Plithermo-modelling, and dry with a hairdryer, creating a raised and voluminous texture with the fingers in the upper part of the neck, a rounded retro effect» he says Anthony Turner, key hairstylist backstage.
The secret to easy wave styling, crumpled? “Spray the hairspray L’Oreal Infinium Pure Hairspray Soft on the lengths and pin with beak clips creating static waves. Once the hairspray has dried naturally, the final result is a very spontaneous and cool semi-smooth wet, without the need for great heat styling».
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