Uncertain times need reliability, and that’s what the Munich Fabric Start trade fair, which started on January 24 and ends today, had to offer. In addition to the fabric trends for the SS24 season, the event focused on the topics of digitization and sustainability, which were discussed and presented with an extensive supporting program.
While many international trade fairs in recent months have shown that the fashion and sports industry is still in crisis mode because trade fairs have become smaller, there were no major drivers and the number of visitors has shrunk, the Munich Fabric Start shows a comparatively stable picture. Around 900 curated exhibitors presented their fabric collections and innovations for the SS24 season at the trade fair, which ends today, in the halls of the Munich MOC, in the Keyhouse and at the Bluezone. “The trade fair is well booked, Bluezone and Keyhouse are even fully booked, despite difficult times,” explains Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start at the beginning of the event. “Our size is about the same as before Corona.” Only the number of exhibitors from Asia – especially from China – have not yet regained their old strength.
The new color and material trends, innovations and inspirations were shown on a total exhibition area of around 42,500 square meters, divided into eight areas as well as elaborately staged trend forums and sample areas. However, the new area in the opposite Motorworld was not used. The Source for manufacturing and all-in-one providers, which was shown there for the first time in August, will only take place there again in the summer.
Digitization: Further development of 3D technologies
The fair placed a special focus on the topics of sustainability and digitization, which was expressed in the motto of the fair “Dare and Care”. The main focus was on the sourcing of sustainable materials and the digitization of product development and the entire supply chain. This became visible, for example, in the newly arranged area for sustainability and digitization in the middle of the MOC. The Assyst Experience was presented for the first time on an area of around 300 square meters in one of the most frequented exhibition areas – Hall 2 in the MOC. The fashion tech specialist, which has been part of the Chinese 3D software group Style 3D since January 2023, demonstrated the possibilities of digitization for the fashion industry together with other technology partners and in lectures and panel discussions. For example, the new collaboration with Style 3D means that product development will also be possible on mobile phones in the future, the transfer of 3D-generated designs into 2D sections will be improved and the display and animation of designs in virtual worlds will be possible.
Sustainability at the heart of the fair
Right next to it and thus more centrally located than before, the trade fair presented sustainable material innovations that are, for example, certified organic, bio-based, recycled, recyclable or from regenerative sources, in the ReSource area. “With around 700 samples, this area has grown noticeably and the quality of the submissions has also increased again. This shows how important this area has become for exhibitors and visitors alike,” explains Frank Junker, Partner & Creative Director of Munich Fabric Start.
As always, the Keyhouse had real innovations to offer in the area of sustainability, where, for example, Savine Schoorl showed products made from hair, the Wint Design Lab showed fabrics made from 100 percent collagen and Verena Brom biodegradable films made from leftovers from fruit juice production.
Fashion trends SS24: The time of the Lohas is coming to an end
When it comes to fashion trends, the contrasts are slowly weakening again, but continue to oscillate between the influences from the new digital worlds and their technicality, nostalgia, naturalness and different cultures. For Carl Tillessen, trend analyst at the DMI, an era is coming to an end, namely that of the “Lohas”. This type of consumer stands for a particularly health-conscious, sustainable lifestyle that looks more to the future than to the present. But the pandemic has taught us to live in the moment. “We long for licentiousness and want to break out, go overboard and live,” said Tillessen in his presentation.
Fabric trends: Vibrant colours, metallics and contrasts
The new trend colors therefore include fruity, lively colors that exude optimism, such as yellow, fuchsia, purple and mauve. Metallics are also becoming stronger, sometimes in silver and gold, but also in colored tones and in pastels. “Metalics play an important role, especially when it comes to accessories,” says Karin Schmitz, Business Development Director DACH at Peclers Paris in her trend presentation for womenswear SS24. Eye-catching looks that play with large volumes, ruffles, 3D effects and unusual necklines go well with this. Denim continues to gain in importance as an antagonist to feminine details and colors. Cultural influences can be seen from Africa and the Slavic countries. These two influences have stylized, large-scale plant patterns in common in strong, contrasting colors and go wonderfully with dark plains. According to Schmitz, the glamor is also important, but is repeatedly broken up with gender-neutral elements such as denim, T-shirts, oversized trousers, athleisure pieces and workwear references.
The desire for more is also evident in the denims. Moving surfaces, which are created either by new structures, by rhinestones or by patterns – for example checks – set the tone. Prints also play a role, which the printer manufacturer Brother demonstrated in an area in the Bluezone. A live demonstration showed how a direct-to-garment printer finishes jackets and trousers.
