“There’s a lot going on again,” Jan Agelink from Buro Jantrendman begins his trend seminar for the spring-summer 2024 season. It can’t be denied: there’s a lot going on: the Ukraine war, which has been going on for almost ten months now, but has become more explosive this year and increasing inflation. All examples that represent the current, uncertain times. FashionUnited attended the trend seminar ‘The ABC of Futureland’ and summarizes the highlights here.
The first theme, ‘Friend of the Land’, is about appreciating the planet we live on. According to Agelink, we are in an era where people, nature and technology must work together to create a new balance. “We’re allowed to put our hands in the ground,” says Agelink. Where does the topic come up in fashion? In used fashion and vintage looks. For example, Loewe has brought out a collection that has plants growing out of it. With this, designer Jonathan Anderson wanted to show how beautiful the earth is and which materials should be used more, for example in the manufacture of clothing. “We should use more materials that have absorbed CO2. That was the message, and it’s very clear in this collection,” says Agelink.
Another trend picture emerging in this theme is the combination of modern and vintage looks. One can see looks being combined together in a patchwork technique, vintage worn over modern. It is reminiscent of folkloric patches. “Color combinations of modern and vintage that result in something very unique,” as Agelink says. “It seems the time has come when we stop throwing things away because we make them so personal.” All of this is done in a color palette of earth tones, pinks and deep blues.
Spring/Summer 24 according to Jan Agelink: Earthbound
A trend topic that is optically related but diametrically opposed in terms of content is ‘Wasteland’. The message ‘everything will be fine’ is posted and drawn in a grey-black color palette. The theme refers to the Balenciaga catwalk show in Paris, where models walked through puddles of mud heading towards an uncertain future. According to Agelink, it describes the urge to step out of the mud puddle and search for the truth. “We have to stay down to earth,” says Agelink. It’s a pretty aggressive portrayal of how Demna, creative director at Balenciaga, sees the future. At the same time, there is something surreal about his vision through the fabric boas worn by the models throughout the show.
One fashion brand that incorporates current realities into their clothing is Ukrainian fashion brand Ksenia Schnaider. The fashion brand is adding fashion labels that contain a QR code that plays an audio clip about the situation in which the garment was made. So, for example, the Kiev air raid alarm can be heard.
The next topic is about energy. The trend researcher sees fashion brands that visualize energy. This is done through mesh-like colors and transparency. Also, the stripes indicate the vibration of the energy. In fashion, this is characterized by sheer fabrics, knitwear with larger holes, and garments that mimic an aura.
The last theme is about connecting the futuristic world with the current world. This theme comes alive with lots of color and “ornate” lines. Luminous colors such as yellow, orange, fuchsia and turquoise play a major role. They were already seen at the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2023 runway show. A pinball track was realized in the Louvre, over which the models ran. The futuristic was already reflected there in large surreal forms. The bright colors conveyed liveliness and optimism.
These are the fashion themes for S/S24 according to Jan Agelink
All four themes together represent how people want to act in the future. Some are looking for a way to save the earth, while others believe the world is beyond saving. In the digital world, the need for a ‘dream world’ seems to be even greater. A mixture of the present and the futuristic world is created by inserting surreal shapes into the fashion image – this is how Agelink describes S/S24. Add to that the elements of circularity, vintage and appreciation to complete the picture. Agelink predicts that people will be willing to make their own items and will no longer distance themselves from their self-made product. “You might think it’s ‘copy and paste’, but that’s what makes an article so unique,” Agelink points out.
Whether inspired by the cheerful ‘feel good’ themes or those searching for the critical truth, there is definitely plenty of inspiration for the S/S24 season.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.nl. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ