Lautumn is a farewell. The leaves that light up with a thousand colors tell us of a life cycle that ends: the chlorophyll, which made them green, gradually decreases and leaves room for a palette of yellow, orange, red that borders on brown. It is the time of the foliage, no less fascinating than the spring blooms. The Japanese, aesthetes of nature, call wandering in search of autumn colors momijigari, because the flaming red of the momiji, the Japanese maples, is of rare beauty. Among secular plants and trees that seem to dress up for the party, it is also possible to enjoy this event here. We propose some destinations that are part of the Grandi Giardini Italiani network (grandigiardini.it) where to best admire the foliage in Italy.
The right time for foliage depends on a number of factors (altitude, temperature, climatic conditions). This year, given the drought that has hit northern Italy, it is better not to wait too long.
Lombardy: the colors of Villa Melzi D’Eril and Isola del Garda
We begin our journey from Lombardy, on Lake Comoas in Japan, for momijigari. The Gardens of Villa Melzi D’Eril (giardinidivillamelzi.it), in Bellagio, are a treasure trove of tree biodiversity, which in autumn becomes a palette of colors, thanks to specimens of gingko, green beech, pendulous beech, oak and English oak. There is also an avenue of plane trees and a bald cypress. But it is in the area of the pond of oriental inspirationand that the plants native to Asia give their best during the foliage. In particular, Villa Melzi D’Eril boasts a collection of maples present in Japan but also in Taiwan, Korea and in some areas of China. Spontaneous varieties, but also selected by man, such asAcer palmatum ‘Higashiyama’, with leaves variegated with pink, cream and light green. The visit, until October 31st, can be an opportunity to see something new: the Augusto Giardini archaeological collection, housed in the Orangerie of Villa Melzi.
Foliage in Isola del Garda (ph.Dario Pironi © Great Italian Gardens Archive)
In Isola del Garda (isoladelgarda.com) the largest on Lake Garda, a Franciscan monastery has been built since the 13th century and has also welcomed Dante Alighieri. It is now a private residence, with a wonderful nineteenth-century neo-Gothic villa, surrounded by gardens. In the Italian one, land man-made caves are covered with American grapevine, which is fiery red in autumn. But it is in the park that an authentic miracle hides: in a bay, bald cypresses sinking the roots in the water turn redoffering a show of unusual beauty. In the English garden, which contains fruit trees, the yellow of the persimmon leaves plays with the orange of the fruit. The guided tour of Isola del Garda is possible throughout the month of October (in the second half, only on Sundays).
Trentino: foliage at the Parco delle Terme and the Parco di Arte Sella
Hunt for the most beautiful leaves In Trentino, in Levico in Valsugana (visitvalsugana.it) the Parco delle Terme is a 12-hectare historic garden perfect for hunting the most suggestive leaves. Look for the bright yellow of the tulip tree and ginkgo tree and the red of liquidambar and maple trees, but larch and plane trees are also a sight. “We also had many majestic beeches, but they have been uprooted by Vaia,” comments Fabrizio Fronza, curator. “Of the historical ones there are only two left. We have replanted over 220 trees, many in the area of the green amphitheater. I also point out the scotano, or tree of fog, which turns bright red, and the pagoda tree, dark red in autumn ». In Levico the best time for foliage is November.
Park of the Terme di Levico (photo Fabrizio Fronza © Great Italian Gardens Archive)
Masterpieces of the artist and of Mother Nature Combine the beauty of nature with that of art Parco di Arte Sella (artesella.it) in Borgo Valsugana, an authentic open-air museum that extends over four hectares. «In autumn Giuliano Mauri’s Vegetal Cathedral, built with living hornbeams, changes color» explains Giacomo Bianchi, president of Arte Sella. «But also Crossing the soul of Will Beckers created in hazelnut dialogues with the colors of a nearby oak of three centuries». The peculiarity of these works is that they are mostly made of natural material, which transforms itself like nature as the seasons pass. Nothing remains unchanged: larch wood, for example, is at first almost orange-yellow, but after a year it turns gray. It is a natural decline, which leads to the replacement of some creations and the continuous renewal of the park. All around, beech trees, centuries-old oaks, larch trees play with colors. Visit recommended in October.
Foliage in Veneto: the Pojega garden of Villa Rizzardi
The eighteenth century Pojega garden of Villa Rizzardi (villarizzardi.it) in Veneto, in Negrar, near Verona, is on three levels, consisting of a large part in the Italian style, with the geometries of the evergreen box trees, and one in the English style. The scenographic theater of greenery alone is worth a visit. During the foliage, the suggestive avenue of hornbeams that goes from the villa to the theater is tinged with orange dark. The vineyards of the farm, which surround the property, also contribute to a magical play of colors. The leaves of the different varieties, in fact, show off multiple colors, including red. The presence of vigne a pergola offers a different glance, creating a patchwork of autumn colors. And after enjoying the landscape with your eyes, you can taste a glass of Amarone. For visits, the best time is mid-October (closes at the end of the month).
Emilia Romagna: the foliage of the Castle of Grazzano Visconti
The patriarch is a plane tree over 150 years old, almost 20 meters high: at the beginning of October, a magnificent carpet of cyclamen spreads at its feet. The Park of the Castle of Grazzano Visconti (grazzanovisconti.com), in the province of Piacenza, 15 hectares wide, it houses numerous tree treasures. It was created around the end of the nineteenth century by Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone. In autumn, the foliage of the trees light up with yellow and brown tones. The avenue of centenary plane trees and other native trees such as hornbeams, poplars, yews, English oaks are a spectacle. Even if they do not change color, the five cedars of Lebanon that are more than a century old are impressive. “I also point out some Lagerstroemias, about 10 meters high, among the first brought from China at the beginning of the twentieth century »adds Carlo Contesso, landscape architect. “It is rare to see them that big. In autumn the leaves turn bright yellow and red“. Also worth seeing for the autumn colors of the Judas tree (yellow) and Cotinus x ‘Grace’ (red). An amazing herbaceous plant, Amsonia hubrictii, has recently been planted, which in October creates a golden yellow cloud with coppery shades.
Piedmont: the park of the Bagnolo Castle
Park of the castle of Bagnolo (photo by Carlo Avataneo)
Among giants of four hundred years. Perched on top of a hill, on clear days the Castle of Bagnolo (castellodibagnolo.it) in Piedmont, in the province of Cuneo, enjoys a spectacular view of the Po Valley. The two-hectare historic park that surrounds it is famous for the flowering of rhododendrons and azaleas in spring, but the autumnal atmosphere is equally pleasant. The oldest trees here are nearly four hundred years old. Oak, beech, bald cypress, liquidambar are colored in yellow, red and orangewhile the role of the prima donna does a tulip tree about forty meters high dating back to the nineteenth century, whose leaves are tinged with golden yellow. October is the ideal time to walk in the park enjoying the chromatic contrasts between deciduous and evergreen trees, such as pines, Japanese cryptomeria, yew, metasequoias. The park is open to public on request and can be visited by appointment on the weekend of 22-23 October. For those wishing to stop in this oasis of peace, there is also a farm.
Foliage in the woods: here the show begins
On foot or by train, here’s where to discover multicolored beech, chestnut and oak groves
As well as in the gardens, the foliage can be admired in the woods. Italy is full of enchanting places. In four weekends in October, atOasis Zegna (oasizegna.com) in Piedmont, in Belmonte (Biella) you can walk with a naturalistic guide among beech and chestnut trees. Suggestive is the experience of Foliage train (vigezzinacentovalli.com) which runs for about fifty kilometers between Locarno and Domodossola crossing the Vigezzo Valley and the Centovalli, surrounded by woods in the shades of autumn. In Trentino (visittrentino.info) you walk among the centuries-old chestnut trees between Brentonico and Castione, and on Lake Tovel larch and conifers that are reflected in the water are a spectacle.
In Lombardy, in Valtellina, in the Valle dei Bagni di Masino (valmasino.info) alternate the colors of beech and fir trees. The National Park of the Casentinesi Forests (parcoforestecasentinesi.it), between the provinces of Forlì Cesena, Arezzo and Florence. Chestnut, beech, oak with hornbeam and other varieties of deciduous trees offer a unique panorama, in an uncontaminated environment.
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