It is wonderful to walk along the wide Boulevard of Schagen, right along the beach of Domburg. Borders with beautiful pink dune roses flank the view of the white beach, the De Manteling nature reserve looms ahead of us. The large water tower, built in 1933, is an unmissable landmark in the landscape.
But what’s along the road, right at the point where the tower is at its most photogenic? A sturdy wooden easel. Anyone who feels like it can put down a canvas and immortalize this special view.
artists
Just like around 1900 many artists who then populated the seaside resort. Attracted by the sea, dunes and countryside and especially the beautiful light, they formed a well-known artist colony with names such as Jan Toorop, Jacoba van Heemskerck and Piet Mondriaan.
From the Hoge Hil viewpoint, which can also be reached via the Boulevard van Schagen, we look out over the seaside resort that is somehow more sophisticated than its counterparts on the Dutch coast. This is perhaps mainly due to Dr. Johann George Mezger, who was the first to apply physiotherapy towards the end of the nineteenth century and thereby acquired fame within royal and noble circles.
He was therefore nicknamed ‘Vorstenwrijver’ and attracted many customers from the better circles who in the summer liked to choose temporary domicile in Domburg in order to enjoy a good cure. Beautiful old buildings such as the romantic villa Carmen Sylva, the pseudonym of the poetic Romanian Queen Elisabeth zu Wied, remind us of their stay.
In the center of Domburg, on ‘t Groentje square, is a statue of the famous doctor Mezger. But the allure of Domburg does not only lie in the distant past. While a Bentley pulls into the parking lot of the well-known, recently renovated Badhotel, we walk from ‘t Groentje into the Ooststraat, at the church which becomes the Weststraat.
Here it is literally terrace next to terrace. Well-visited all day long, but especially around five o’clock people can fully enjoy a pleasant après beach in these streets.
What stands out are the shops, mostly from the top segment. Rituals is there, but also Bomont, known for the better clothing. In the shop of ‘t Begin tasty (farmer’s) sandwiches, but also regional products such as Zeeland button chocolate, samphire mustard and seaweed vinegar.
Beach
But why do you actually come to Domburg? For the beach, of course! Beautifully wide and with those characteristic Zeeland double rows of pile heads, intended to prevent erosion of the beach and dune strip.
At low tide it is nice to look at the poles, because in the smaller water pools around it we see fish and crabs. When swimming, stay away from the poles as the current between them can be dangerous.
Photogenic are the long rows of cabins in Mediterranean pastel colors on the beach. These can be rented through the ‘accommodation provider’ and usually contain two beach chairs and a windbreak, while also storing your own belongings. Such cabins have been around since 1900 when wealthy families liked to have their own spot on the beach.
We are looking for a place on the terrace of restaurant Het Badpaviljoen, again on the handy Boulevard of Schagen. With a glass of well-chilled rosé we watch the setting sun and the tourists, mostly families who come off the beach red and nice and sandy. Beach fun is of all ages.
Ring riding on the Market
Real Zeeland: ring driving. A folkloric tradition in which the ring piercer on horseback puts a lance through a ring. He or she gallops towards a scaffold with a ring. In the summer, several competitions are held on the centrally located Markt in Domburg.
Dates: Saturday 23 July, Saturday 6 and Saturday 27 August.
The market is always pleasant, every Monday until September 19. The stalls are set up in East and West Street.