We live in turbulent times – as the Dutch trend researcher Christine Boland emphasized several times during her trend seminar for the FW23 season. The world is at a turning point, not only in terms of climate, but also in terms of gender roles and what is considered feminine and masculine in fashion. “This is the tension we live in,” she insists. “Although these times are turbulent, they also offer room for a ‘creative explosion,'” Boland said. “The transboundary power of creativity and imagination will help us in the transformation that is upon us.” And it is precisely the power of creativity and imagination that is clearly evident in the trend forecast for FW23.
There is a big paradox in this day and age, Boland said. “We want to withdraw, but also connect more than ever.” This contradiction is reflected in many ways in their assessments for the autumn/winter 2023 season.
Cross-border creativity will accelerate change
Two themes mentioned by the trend researcher are not heard for the first time – they already appeared in the SS23 forecast, but they remain omnipresent: it is about the development of the metaverse and the nanoverse of nature as well as the concentration on the natural and simple, which is translated into sophisticated patterns and structures. The first topic she touches on is therefore ‘simple to noble’. “There’s a certain impermanence to this theme, but it’s still gentle,” says Boland. Think sculptural forms in tops, accessories, and even shoes. There’s a tactility to this theme — for example, in the form of hairy and furry textures or faux fur throughout Combination with very smooth surfaces.The theme is full of rhythms, structures, patterns and constructions.There are even elements of the Dada art movement, characterized by a collage-like style.
The developments in the Metaverse and the research in the Nanoverse – which gathers ever deeper knowledge about nature – are summarized under the topic ‘On the trail of natural intelligence’. “It’s a mix of surrealism and hyperrealism,” Boland said. This is expressed through a clear play of lines and patterns based on cells and threads of mycelium structures. “The forms seem to have grown by accident”. Fashion picks up on these shapes with balloon sleeves and textures created by drawstrings. Not to be forgotten is bioluminescence – a natural phenomenon in which chemical reactions produce light in a living organism. In fashion, it is translated with bright colors that enliven the looks.
Even the suit, which is no longer reserved for men’s fashion, will celebrate a comeback. As in the 2023 summer season, the suit also shows feminine and masculine elements in the cooler season. Instead of the flowing shapes of the summer season, the suits are now razor sharp yet elegant. “It looks like a classic, but it’s not. “We’re far from done with the suit,” Boland says. The suit fits the ‘breaking stereotypes’ theme, which explores the values of femininity and masculinity. “The bright pink color has become genderless,” Boland adds. Within the theme, another movement stands out: the fondness for retro prints. The coming season brings a certain mid-century nostalgia executed in modern colors. “Color is very important. The fondness for the prints and their simplicity is also partly reminiscent of Boland’s prediction from the summer of ’23, in which the ‘2D look’ was a strong backlash to the 3D world of the Metaverse.
Between past and future
Boland acknowledges that some themes that have previously been explored in a different form continue into the FW23 season. There are minor differences, and that, according to Boland, is the essence of the renewal. Of course, the changes that the world is currently undergoing in various aspects have not disappeared from one season to the next. But there are also new elements, such as the theme of ‘history reshaping’, as Boland calls it. In a way, history is re-examined and supplemented. She describes it as a combination of romance and reality, and a fresh look at what’s good and bad. This theme means the return of armor, damsels and knights. Elements of chain mail can be seen, “pearls are back” and the color combination of black, beige and gold with lush decorations prevails. “It’s super rich and luscious, but has a weird edge to it.” It could even border on the hysterical, Boland said, referring to the historical twist that the Netflix series Bridgerton brings to the costumes.
While some themes are already familiar, the FW23 season still offers an interesting range of stories – from damsels and armor to razor-sharp femininity. In addition to lush patterns and gold, there is also a wealth of structure. Thankfully, fashion professionals don’t have to work with everything at once, but there’s plenty of inspiration to choose what best suits the target audience.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl.