Lace is again very present in fashion, giving it craftsmanship and delicacy. The traditional fabric is now even recycled to create unique pieces worn by stars like Beyoncé and Rosalía.
The resurgence of lace is one of this year’s trends. Pinterest Business already predicted this based on millions of searches from its users. The trend is also reflected on the catwalks – from the elegant designs of Saint Laurent to the romantic looks of Alexander McQueen. The delicate fabric is considered a way to enhance fashion and give it a touch of luxury.
“This return of lace also has to do with the general situation in fashion,” Pierre Groppo, editor-in-chief of fashion and lifestyle at Vanity Fair France, told AFP. “Nowadays, houses and brands are more keen to emphasize the quality of the garment, especially given the financial difficulties in the luxury sector.”
“Lace immediately conveys the idea of savoir-faire, of preciousness and a certain haute couture dimension,” he adds. “This gives the piece its own identity and value.” In his opinion, “incorporating a sense of craftsmanship creates emotion, and that’s something fashion needs right now.”
Materials from past centuries
In the Parisian atelier of Les Fleurs Studio, lace is present in almost all creations. Here, however, it is made from old fabric scraps and recycled materials.
“We create unique pieces because we use fabrics from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries,” explains the Spanish María Bernad. She founded the brand in 2019 and is surrounded by shelves full of old lace of all kinds. Although this romantic style with lace is currently on trend, her approach to upcycling is more niche.
“It’s a niche, there aren’t many people who work with such old fabrics,” says Bernad in her small Paris studio. This is located in an incubator for sustainable fashion brands.
Her hand-sewn garments resemble puzzles. They are made from leftover fabric from underwear and laundry, some of which are more than a century old. The designer finds them mainly at markets or through private sales.
“In recent years, trends have changed a lot. Today it’s also about being unique and owning special pieces,” assures the designer. She shows a beige wedding dress with a long skirt and a free back, which was made from several recycled parts.
“Fragility”
For Pierre Groppo, this transparent, delicate fabric is also “the image of a kind of femininity that transcends eras”. In addition, in his opinion, “every woman can make lace her own” and wear it in a classic or sexy way. An example of this is the American star Kim Kardashian in a transparent black suit from Balenciaga.
Les Fleurs Studio also has celebrity customers who have worn their models. This includes the American singer Beyoncé, who wore a crocheted mini dress with a matching headdress in 2024. The Spanish Rosalía also wore a lace cape from the 1940s at her recent concerts in France.
Most of her commissions today are wedding and party dresses, explains Bernad, who is obsessed with anything that had “a previous life.” The production time is between two weeks and two months. The prices for the most elaborate creations are between 2,000 and 12,000 euros. For her, it’s less about a fashion trend and more about “bringing things back from the past and being able to work with them.” This is how sustainable, unique pieces are created.
According to Groppo, lace is something “a little more fragile, more delicate” in this seemingly brutal world. “In such a complicated and difficult time, a touch of fragility may become the new luxury.”
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