This is how brands get into the official calendar

Paris Fashion Week is considered one of the most important fashion events worldwide and is a central meeting point for designers, buyers and international media. Access to the official calendar of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) is strictly regulated and differentiates between member and guest brands.

How does the system work?

In principle, access options depend on the brands’ relationship with FHCM. Member brands are automatically included in the show calendar. Selected guest brands, however, will have access to the FHCM show and presentation calendar after the responsible committees have decided this.

Guest brands must apply with a dossier three to four months before Fashion Week in order to be listed for a presentation or show. This dossier contains an introduction to the brand, the lookbook of the collections and information on sales and distribution. The application is free of charge.

All dossiers received are submitted by the FHCM to the responsible committees for a decision. Paris Fashion Week men’s fashion is chaired by CEO Elsa Lanzo. Anouck Duranteau-Loeper, CEO of Isabel Marant, is responsible for the selection of women’s fashion. Each committee is made up of international journalists, buyers and industry experts.

The most important thing for the decision is that there is space in the calendar, as it cannot be expanded. The brand’s sales do not play a central role, but are used to assess its operational capacity and structure.

The committees also evaluate the relevance of a presentation in terms of market demand, the brand’s chances of growing through its presence in the calendar, and the organizational structure, such as affiliation with a group or industrial development.

Please note that the presentation format includes a daily time slot of at least 2 hours and 30 minutes. This format is becoming increasingly common, although for some brands it means multiple highlights. Some brands even organize several small shows and note this on their invitation cards.

Two statuses, two ways into the FHCM calendar

Member brands must have paid their annual dues, which are calculated according to a confidential internal fee schedule and take into account the economic size of the brand.

Guest brands, on the other hand, pay a registration fee based on sales and the season they are registered for.

In terms of funding, the Défi de la Mode initiative can grant funding to French brands: a maximum of 15,000 euros for a fashion show and 6,000 euros for a presentation, provided the application is approved and eligibility is met. Further support options exist for partners, showrooms or photo shoots.

For foreign brands, FHCM has set up support programs in collaboration with member brands and private partners, particularly within the framework of the SPHERE program.

Strategically, it is important for Paris Fashion Week to make space for emerging international brands. While FHCM’s member brands are French, guest brands have a higher proportion of international labels.