MARTURET JAZMIN He always knew that he was going to devote himself to the world of fires. As if he had been born to be a cook. Talk about the kitchen with authentic passion and light your face when you comment on dishes, meals, products and your restaurant Santa Inés (Avalos 360, La Paternal), which has Agustina Roveta in society. A dream come true that this year received the Bib Gourmand distinction of the Michelin Guide.
Jasmine took his first steps at age 16, 17, took classes with Emi de Molina and with the great Beatriz Chomnalez, until his grandmother paid the race at the Argentine Institute of Gastronomy, where he also made the postgraduate degree in pastry.
“In the middle I worked at a shelter on the Otto hill, I learned to hack, to alleviate snow, to cook with nothing, it was spectacular. Also in a campsite of Lake Gutiérrez and I no longer stopped. I planned to go to Peru and Europe, but I became pregnant and my life changed. Palermo
News: What is passionate about the kitchen?
MARTURET JAZMIN: The alchemy of transforming textures, flavors and all that seems exciting. I like that there are knives, boards, colors, everything is very aesthetic. It is like a workshop, and it is as a team, it is incredible. In addition, I am very passionate that everything is alive, to come with land, with blood. The kitchen is tragic and it is dangerous and at the same time is exciting. On the other hand, I love to feed. I really like the satisfaction I feel when I see people eating and enjoying food. All those things that retract your grandmother or time. There are two secret ingredients in the kitchen.
News: What are they?
MARTURET: Love and time. There is no soup that can get rich if it is not done with time or a stew, a curry, everything that is pot. And there is also time to eat it. I like to pay close attention and make a lot of love and take great care of food and diner.
News: You say that kitchen is an act of devotion.
MARTURET: First because you are feeding and yes or if you have to do it with love. There is no way that something is good if it is not with love. Some type of passion or ambition. But for the food to be rich, rich and feed, there are many hours and much neglect other things, because the cycle does not stop, it is permanent, especially in a restaurant. Every day you have to give up and you have to give every day. For me it is spectacular.
News: This transmits it. He tells and lights his face.
MARTURET: It’s very nice, very nice.
News: How did the idea of having a restaurant arise?
MARTURET: As a girl, since I started with the kitchen, I always fantasized about having a restaurant. Then, I was gathering all the antiques I had, the cutlery, all to be able to build a restaurant without silver.
News: And Santa Inés arrived
MARTURET: Yes, the catering ceased to be a challenge and I need many changes, that the thing is alive, that it is in motion and that it challenges me, that makes me want to improve, want to study. It happens to me with my partners, it happened to me with high school. If I can’t find passions and passionate people, it costs me a lot. The challenge is very important. Well, I don’t know why, because I’m crazy, it occurred to me to put a restaurant. We had almost a year of work and opened in September of ’18. It was a bakery, he has his block with his oven, and what my kitchen is today was the house of the family that owns the place. And deep down my dad has his workshop. My parents are artists, ceramists, my mother also carpentry and my dad, sculptures with wires
News: What kind of subtracted is it?
MARTURET: I feel very Canchera saying this, but I tell you very humility. Santa Inés is me. It is a reflection of mine. All the things of my grandparents who already died are there, for example, my grandmother’s sewing machines Alicia. And from the remaining family, everyone brings me things. It is like a nest of the my family and Agus, my partner, and of all those who were working and participating in the project. Everyone left something, everything is a memory. There is nothing that is not personal. The mirror that is from my grandmother’s closet.
News: And the food?
MARTURET: I always made very fresh food, Canchera I say to him, as I ate in my house. Artisanal, but without much return, nothing very pretentious. No expensive ingredients, without elite products. If I have access to a better product, I buy it and I give it to my diners. For example, now I am using Mauricio Couly’s cheeses, Cipolletti, which are from the San Mother. I also buy the boys of eight six central, two chefs that go to the central market and buy very conscientiously, and let me know every week they find and I with that play a lot. In addition, I have other greengrocer suppliers, a refrigerator, a butcher shop and the fish of the Chinese neighborhood. Every five weeks we change one hundred percent of the letter.
News: What would you recommend from the current letter?
MARTURET: The cheese dish is spectacular. He has a sheep and a Saint Maureen cheese, which is like a Brie, with a quinotos jam for Cheddar and Membrillos in syrup for the other. It also carries violet sweet potatoes, olive oil, pepper, pomegranate and herbs. For resistance dish, the Gumbo is very good, from Creole cuisine in the southern United States, a dish of slaves, with a lot of French influence. He is a stew, with the base of a roux, a thickener made with butter and flour, and has prawns, Andouille, a French sausage, chicken and we put barbecue sausage and vegetables, and comes with rice and corn fritters. It is a plathance. There is also good beet soup with yogurt that comes with a pastry sandwich.
News: What implies the Michelin distinction?
MARTURET: It gives me a lot of relief. I feel that everything was worth it and more. I think I have a very long race ahead still, but it is a little push. He tells you: “Give him baby, nothing happens.” It’s like I can. “I continued.” It gives me a lot of peace of mind. The same happens to me with diners, the full restaurant is something wonderful and it gives me a lot of pride. Talking with you, the recognition of colleagues, everything is great. But I also grew up a lot towards the guide and I didn’t think I was going to happen to me. I feel like a Disney princess. I feel that I did it well, that I am on the right path.
News: This path, which seen from the outside is very nice and is very nice to sit down to eat and talk about gastronomy, has a side B. Because it demands a lot of time, energy, put things aside.
MARTURET: Yes, that exists, but it depends a lot on the environment you choose to do so. You have to choose very well who one spends the day because it is many hours. They have to be people who feed you, with whom you laugh or share hobbies, there must be like a family behind. You have to be able to trust those people a lot because, in addition, it is a teamwork. They have to want to throw the project forward. It is an extra energy that one as an owner has to have to encourage. There is a lot of meetings, talks, to take a vinito, bring some rich food. All the time you have to be looking for things as a leader for the team to be motivated and standing. That carries enough energy. I am learning.
News: It must also be important who has a partner
MARTURET: Of course. With Agus we are better friends from high school. She did not study kitchen, she dedicated himself to real estate and I convinced her. We have a lot of confidence and there is my old man who also works in the box and receives people. It may seem like a cliché, but the truth is that we get along and we love each other very much. I take great care of my people, everyone knows that they count on me. Although I don’t have there, and I grab my head and say how I’m going to do, they are first, because they are fulfilling my dream.
News: Does her daughter accompany her in the kitchen?
MARTURET: She studies design at the FADU. But he made a lot of kitchen and if I need, come and arms, help with desserts, put order in the deposit, attend the tables and can cook too.
News: And among his dreams are also the trips. No?
MARTURET: Yes, I love it. Two years ago we went with my daughter to Asia two months. We spent a month in Thailand, we toured the north, very exciting, zero tourist, and then we went to Vietnam and Hong Kong. There I fulfilled my dream of going to Southeast Asia and taking her to my daughter. I am excited to think that I did it, that we were. Then I returned to the same places and new ones. I’m going to eat and study. All the time I think of food. Now I go to Barcelona and Paris, to eat and to drink wine. I seventeen years ago I went to Paris, now I return with another palate, another wallet. I can sit in a restaurant, many years I traveled without being able to access restaurants. Here in Buenos Aires I also happened to me. I couldn’t. Now I can and I enjoy it a lot.
