People continue to look for more sustainable alternatives to synthetic and animal-based fabrics. And recently, new types of fibers have begun their triumphant advance.
A new report from the Material Innovation Initiative (MII), titled ‘Brand Engagement with Next-Gen Materials: 2022 Landscape’, unveils the most important and advanced materials poised to shape the fashion industry in the years to come.
Dubbed “Next Generation” (Next-Gen), the products replace animal-based materials such as leather, silk, wool, down, and fur. The innovations have become more and more present not only in the fashion industry, but also in the automotive and household goods sectors. Many brands have chosen to incorporate next-gen materials into their product lines.
As part of the report, MII presented the brands that have already incorporated these next-gen materials into their strategies, why others should consider them, and what challenges these innovations might bring. FashionUnited has compiled key information from the report to understand what these materials can actually do for the future of fashion.
Why are next-gen materials used?
According to the MII report, brands are adopting next-gen materials primarily with the expectation of increasing sales “by demonstrating their positive impact on the environment and animal welfare.” Consumer demand is one of the most important factors to include these innovative materials in the collections. According to MII, most people are even willing to pay more for products made from materials that align with their values. Also, each individual next-gen material has a potential market share of at least 50 percent compared to traditional materials, according to the MII.
While revenue is an obvious factor, the positive environmental impact cannot be overlooked when it comes to next-gen materials. As mentioned in the report, it is reasonable to assume that a large part of a brand’s environmental impact is due to the raw materials used, which is why many are turning to animal products instead. However, the MII suggests considering animal-friendly products instead. Independently certified materials from trusted companies can guarantee both the ecological and ethical quality of the product. In fact, animal welfare has become more important to customers and is the third most important reason for using next-generation materials, according to MII.
Supply chain investigations have consistently uncovered worrying instances of animal cruelty by brands, and many fashion houses have transitioned to sourcing animal-free products altogether. As more and more guidelines and industry standards are introduced, fashion is starting to look to a more animal-friendly future, which is increasingly being demanded by consumers.
Vegan leather
Vegan leather has been incorporated into the strategies of many retailers and is the most commonly used material in MII’s list, with many material innovation companies using alternative leather manufacturing methods. Piñatex, one of the most widely used next-gen materials, is made from the waste of the pineapple plant. The company has partnered with many leading retailers to develop products made from pineapple leather, including H&M, Hugo Boss and Nike, each of which make vegan footwear collections and clothing items from the material.
Cactus leather is another popular leather alternative that has been adopted by many brands in accessory lines. Karl Lagerfeld, Fossil and Adidas are among those who have already collaborated with Desserto – the name of the cactus leather manufacturer. LVMH and Capri Holdings have also launched vegan products made from cactus leather.
Vegetable fur
As many countries have banned fur farming, the demand for faux fur has increased, and with it concerns about the impact of production. Lenzing and its flagship textile brand, Tencel, is a company that offers solutions for this specific area of faux fur production. The company has previously worked with Ugg on shoes that have replaced the brand’s signature sheepskin with animal-friendly wood fiber fur. Ecopel’s Koba uses plant-based fibers and recycled polyester to produce a soft fur used by companies like Stella McCartney for a fur-free line.
silk
As highlighted in the report and described in the Higg Index, silk has the largest ecological footprint in all pressure categories compared to any other material. Along with the impact on animal welfare and human rights, the material is a constant theme for textile companies to innovate. Italian company Orange Fiber is one of those taking on this challenge, extracting the substance from citrus by-products. Fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo was one of the first to collaborate with Orange Fiber and launch a capsule collection using this material. H&M and E. Marinella have also worked with the innovation company.
Wool
Since its peak in the 1990s, wool has been progressively replaced by synthetics and cotton blends, with more sustainable and ethical alternatives now emerging. Spinnova, a company in which Adidas has invested, produces wool-like fibers from FSC-certified waste materials and refines the raw material into its end product. The company has worked with established brands such as Bestseller, The North Face and Marimekko on sustainable fabrics for eco-conscious collections.
down
Unlike polyester microfibers, next-generation down uses plants, recycled PET or other sustainable materials to create the cozy feel that many retailers and consumers want in a down product. While many, like H&M and Jack Wolfskin, have added the material to their product range, Pangaia and Save the Duck have also built a business-to-business line to sell their eco-friendly alternatives to other brands.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ