The third day of parades of the 31st edition of the 080 Barcelona Fashion that has hosted this sunny Thursday the modernist venue of Sant Pau has had themes as diverse as the world of dreams, punk rock culture and 18th century paintingand has placed the accent on craftsmanship, tradition, creativity and also on the innovation of techniques and fabrics.
COMPTE SPAIN
The first to parade was the designer’s very young ‘prêt-à-couture’ firm santi mozas (Valencia, 1994), who after succeeding in her debut and with her first collection at last year’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid, has presented her second collection, ‘Trauma’, at 080 Barcelona Fashion, “on the classic stories of Dracula and Frankenstein and how they have permeated our subconscious”, he explained to this newspaper.
The collection is made up of loaded ‘looks’ -in black, red and white, mainly- that take as reference the magical surrealism in pictorial art and especially in the work of the Spanish artist Remedios Varówho wanted to show the unreal or strange as something everyday and common breaking the limits of reality, as well as the work of Margaret Modlinwhere they look at the way of capturing terror in their works.
A total of 24 ‘looks’ reminiscent of the dark and nightmares, but elevated with a lot of glam. Minidresses, sets of ‘top’ and pants and jewel pieces with crystals. A proposal full of details, perfect for guest and special occasions, where the sequins, quilted fabrics and hand embroideries share the limelight with ‘crochet’ designs, made stitch by stitch in lurex and cotton wooland elements as delicate as the lace or lingerie signed by Chantellespecifically from its high-end Chantelle X collection.
PAOLO LEDUC
Firm that has also made its debut at 080 Barcelona Fashion, and which is also inspired by the origins of the designer: on the one hand, its Spanish roots, of which is nourished by the essence more baroque and excessand on the other hand, from his French roots he picks up that more classic side and craftsmanship.
The designer who from childhood to adolescence was painting on the walls, pieces of wood, school desks and clothes, presents ‘Between sun and shadow’a collection that is the reflection of his person. sewn and painted works, which distorts human silhouettes and the classic forms of tailoring, with deconstruction of garments, the use of digital printing with the ‘trompe l’oeil’ technique and the manipulation of fabrics. There is also a lot of inspiration from world of the night with touches of punk rock culture and cinema.
ANEL YAOS
This brand speaks through its collections of its inner world and the way of feeling of its generation. It’s a reference of the floral and geometric stamping of the 70s and 80sthe volumes and ornaments of 18th century painting and 90s overlays.
He has presented ‘Deep’, a collection made up of 22 looks in which romantic universe, in the 70s and 80s, the nomads, evolution and marginal are present. It reflects the fluidity of light fabrics such as silk, chiffon and cotton against the forcefulness of velvet and neoprene under the prism of a fascinating conversation of prints and colors that fit harmoniously with each other. The overlaps, characteristic of Anel Yaos’s styling, are simplified until they become minimalist.
OUTSIDERS DIVISION
Transgressor of reality and emotions and under the motto ‘the beauty of error’, david mendezthe creator of the brand, brings us closer to dream worlds of fantasy. A dalmatians outfit, organic cotton jumpers, hook cutouts, leopard and tartan checks, a bunch of oil painted bones, furry coats, colored soles on handmade shoes, a carrot shaped hat and another with yellow antennae, a portrait of cats and dogs printed on a suit, some gingham cardigans and shirts, striped rugby polo shirts, a green meadow sewn on a puffer… are some of the creations that he has presented to us.
THE LABEL EDITION
The brand with a 100% digital DNA has presented ‘MOTLEI’a collection that is full of pieces that can be combined with each other, letting the creativity and unique style of each of them run wild, offering the opportunity to choose how and when to live each piece.
The collection is based on subtlety as a key element, placing special emphasis on colours, especially on bright colors, and in the modularity. They have opted for a palette of vivid colors, which runs a path through the different shades of pink as the protagonist, oranges, reds, greens and yellows. The volumes, especially in the sleeves, are part of the brand’s DNA, and in this collection they return unquestionably. They propose very vaporous pieces and volatile textures that we see them in bamboo and different cottons as well as ‘denim’.
CUSTOM BARCELONA
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DOMINICAN
The person in charge of closing the day has been Dominicana firm characterized by the ‘slow fashion’ premise, diversity, innovation and sustainability of its processes, has presented its new collection ‘Dildom fail’. It is a proposal made by 25′ looks in which pieces that are already part of the brand’s identity mesh to give way to an inspiration that looks at artistic currents such as Dadaism from Marcel Duchamp; the brothers concept art Jake and Dinos Chapman; the contemporary artist Anna Uddemberg; the object designer, anthony redmile or the provocative aesthetic of ‘A Clockwork Orange’by Stanley Kubrick and the dystopian novel, ‘A happy world’by Aldous Huxley.