The young labels Weinsanto, CFCL and Vaquera opened the Paris Fashion Week for women on Monday and thus gave the starting signal for a new season, which is still shaped by a chair among the artistic director: inside.
This first day dedicated to the new guard will begin with the traditional fashion show by the graduate: inside the Institut Français de la Mode, which is considered one of the most prestigious international fashion schools.
“It is important to see the aspiring talent and their interpretation of fashion art (…) This is always a good energetic start for the fashion Week,” Claire Thomson-Jonville, editor-in-chief of the French Vogue, told AFP.
This is followed by the “completely icy” show of the Alsatian Victor Weinsanto, which is also known as the “Jacquendus of the East”, and the show of the Japanese label CFCL (Clothing for Contemporary Life). The New York label Vaquera will complete the day.
For nine days, more than 100 houses will reveal their autumn/winter collections 2025-2026 in 71 fashion shows and 37 presentations. Dior, which is still at the center of the rumors, will open the round on Tuesday with a show that may be the last of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the artistic director of the ladies’ collection.
According to rumors, the Italian is facing out and could be replaced by the Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who is currently heading the Spanish label Loewe, which also belongs to LVMH.
First steps
Another episode of this great chair is that Chanel will present a new collection on Tuesday, March 11, the last day of this fashion week, which was designed by the creative studio.
Matthieu Blazy, who was appointed artistic director in December, will only present a collection in September. The most expected events also include the first steps of Sarah Burton near Givenchy on Friday, by Julian Klausner at Dries van Noten on Wednesday and by Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, who can be seen on the catwalk for the first time on the same day. The American label has so far shown in New York.
The Alaïa house will also have its first official appearance in the Paris Calendar on Tuesday. The big names of the luxury goods industry-Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga-are of course also represented, as are the new guard with the shows by Marine Serre, Ludovic de Saint-Sernin and Coperni.
These newcomers are also worth mentioning: the Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson, who won the LVMH Prize last year, and the Frenchman Alain Paul. “Paris is one of the few fashion Weeks, which has many young creative up to very large institutional brands and designers who have already been established,” summarizes Alix Morabito, head of the women’s fashion shopping at the Galeries Lafayette.