The craft of shoemaking is not dead. On the contrary: it is very much alive, as Alice Duarte, shoemaker at Veja, tells FashionUnited in an interview.
Duarte has an impressive resume. She learned the craft of shoe repair at a vocational school in France and rose to become a shoemaker for luxury fashion brands such as Louboutin and Chanel. She now works as a shoemaker at the French sneaker brand Veja, which employs shoemakers in Paris, Bordeaux, Berlin and Madrid.
In the interview, Duarte tells more about her job.
What does a day as a shoemaker at Veja look like?
Every day begins with opening the workshop, checking emails and recording incoming shoes in a spreadsheet. Then I start resoling, repairing linings and cleaning shoes. My week starts with small repairs, like sewing and repairing lining or leather parts. Later in the week I work on the bigger repairs, like resoling shoes.
How did you get a job as a shoemaker at Veja?
I couldn’t sit still at school. Someone said, “You’re doing an apprenticeship,” and that sounded great to me. I thought, “It’s going to be about shoes,” because I loved shoes. In France there is a training program (editor’s note: Les Compagnons du Devoir), a kind of craft guild. I trained as a shoemaker and learned a lot about the craft, from orthopedics to traditional shoe repair.
Later I worked in orthopedics because these companies are more likely to hire. Traditional shoemakers often don’t have the budget to hire someone, I thought, until I discovered London, where big brands offer after-sales services. I started at Louboutin, known for their red soles. They had a shoemaker in Paris and one in London, although the latter is now closed.
People often say that the shoemaking trade is dying out, that no one repairs them anymore because shoes have become cheaper. But my experience is that big brands care about after-sales service. After Louboutin, I also worked for Chanel.
In addition to the statement that your craft is dying out, are there any other prejudices about your profession?
When I ran my own workshop, customers often asked about my husband while I was the one doing everything. People often expect an older man to be a shoemaker, but more and more women are taking up this profession. The image that it is a dying profession is also not true. Every year new shoemakers complete their training.
What are the main tasks in your position?
Dealing with customers is the most important task. I have to explain to customers that their shoes may not be repairable and educate them on how to care for and wear their shoes optimally. Customers need to trust you and know that you know what you are doing.
What inspires you most about working for Veja?
At Veja they attach great importance to good machines. They have machines that you cannot find in conventional shoemakers. This includes an automatic press that works from below instead of just above, which is essential for sneakers. They also work with a French company that remanufactures used machines. This is great and fits in with their focus on sustainability, which I fully support. My job is to repair, not consume.
Are there any particular challenges in your work?
Customer perception of shoe repair can sometimes be a challenge. Some customers have high expectations. If a shoe that has been made does not look the way customers imagined, it can sometimes be difficult for them to accept this.
Are there certain qualities someone needs to have to be good at your job?
The ability to solve problems is crucial. You have to be willing to make mistakes and learn from them so that you can avoid them in the future. This profession really requires patience and the desire to constantly learn and improve. You also have to have a passion for shoes and sustainability because that is the core of what we do at Veja.
What would you recommend to people who also want to become a shoemaker?
Learn to repair. It is a very lively field. You learn about all types of shoes and repair techniques. Ten years ago I wouldn’t have recommended this profession because of the limited options, but now I see more and more brands offering repair services, which makes sense given the focus on sustainability.