Rebellion and classics are the trends

What will fashion bring in summer 2024? Trend forecaster Hilde Francq shed light on these and other questions during her biannual color trend webinar, which FashionUnited summarizes here.

As always, Francq bases her predictions on four societal trends that are setting the tone today. Each of these elements in its own way influences the visual trends of the future. This time, as Francq explains at the beginning of her presentation, each of these trends can be understood as a coping mechanism by people living in a difficult reality. After all, the energy crisis, the climate crisis and also the health crisis are part of everyday life. Tensions are becoming clearer and trust in established systems is waning. An overarching need for change and escapism characterizes the 2024 summer season.

Take things into your own hands

Blind trust in established systems is therefore rare today. Instead, more and more people are taking the reins into their own hands to make the world a better place. The belief that everything is possible is of central importance. The theme of ‘revolt’ is about rebelling against existing systems, or rather against everything that does not contribute to sustainable solutions. Such behavior is also expected of brands. ‘Purpose branding’ is a must and actions speak louder than words: they are expected. Francq, for example, refers to the British luxury department store Selfridges, which claims that half of all offers will fall under the categories of resale, repair or rental by 2030.

The longing for this ‘revolt’ translates visually into a new version of camouflage colors that are closely interwoven with earth tones. Here you will find references to sustainability and revolution. Sand colors, shades of brown, cinnamon and military blue take center stage. Red is another accent color that matters because of its revolutionary nature. Batik techniques are used in earthy tones with vegetable dyeing techniques. Lines reminiscent of electric cables are used to create structure. A distressed aesthetic with intentionally unfinished elements translates the ‘reused’ and ‘repaired’ solutions, giving the trend a rebellious look. The return to more sustainable pre-industrial techniques leads to unpolished surfaces. Functionality and comfort are the focus.

Diesel F/S23. Image: Diesel
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Zegna F/S23. Image: Zegna
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Diesel F/S23. Image: Diesel

moon out, sun in

While a few years ago the need for meaning, peace and spirituality expressed itself in a visual focus on the moon, the interest has now shifted to the optimism of the sun. The longing for ‘light at the end of the tunnel’ translates into warm, optimistic colors and shiny surfaces.

When playing with light, shadow and color gradients, orange and yellow are used. But the cooler blue and violet tones that we have already observed in the moon theme also remain relevant, but this time in combination with warm colors. The combination of pink or purple with blue also plays an important role in emphasizing genderlessness. Gold is also important, especially in combination with the shiny and delicate texture of silk or in the form of pearls and sequins. Digitally printed color gradations are reminiscent of the course of the sunset.

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Marni F/S23. Image: Marni
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JW Anderson F/S23. Image: Catwalk Pictures

‘Fake’ is no longer a dirty word

The term ‘fake’ no longer has negative connotations. On the contrary, the added value of this is increasingly recognized. Digitization is at the heart of this development. The line between what is real and what is fake is becoming increasingly blurred and accepting it seems a better option than fighting it. Strange silhouettes appear unintentionally distorted in Photoshop and refer to the digital world. New materials create surreal and optical effects. Loewe’s pixel top and sweater, for example, drew a lot of attention, and the Bottega Veneta show featured what appeared to be jeans and a flannel shirt but was actually made out of leather.

Thanks in large part to the gaming industry, younger generations have become more open to bright, saturated colors, according to Francq. Stronger colors are no longer just for the brave in 2024. They will also find a place in traditional contexts. For example, grass green, fuchsia and poisonous yellow will become more important for people in their 20s and 30s. A new type of pastel palette, which puts a veil over the light colors so to speak, is also used, sometimes with the addition of shine or a metallic finish. A pastel version of lime green from the ’90s is making a comeback.

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Givenchy S/S23. Image: Givenchy
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Bottega Veneta F/S23. Image: Bottega Veneta

Return to classics

It is a well-known phenomenon that in turbulent times people reflect on the certainty of the past. In a financial crisis, it’s wise to invest in collateral and products that last. Hence reference is made to the way in which luxury was defined hundreds of years ago through the romanticization of the Roman era and classical values ​​of fashion design. Elegance and luxury are central and achieved through tailoring, sophistication and quality. The display of large logos is no longer desired: real luxury lies in the workmanship and in the details. There is also a return to the classics in the color landscape.

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Saint Laurent F/S23. Image: Saint Laurent

This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.nl. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ

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