After postponing his catwalk show in deference to the Queen’s death, Raf Simons finally presented the Spring/Summer 2023 collection in London – the designer’s first show in the British capital.
The event took place at the Printworks nightclub and was held to coincide with the Frieze art fair, which Simons is patron of and which was therefore chosen as the venue for the show’s after-party.
The catwalk itself was also transformed into a party setting with dim lights, strobe lights and blaring music from French DJane Clara 3000.
Unlike the many designers embracing the Y2K trend that was prevalent at other fashion weeks, Simons instead took inspiration from the 1980s, evident in the choice of neon green tones and anarchistic graphics.
However, the collection was arguably one of Simons’ most understated lines to date, with a selection of tailored blazers and biker jackets designed as “radical gestures of simplicity,” according to a press release. However, Simons didn’t hold back with a range of cultural references ranging from new wave to punk movements.
This applies in particular to a selection of t-shirts and accessories created in collaboration with the Philippe Vandenberg estate. The late artist’s creations were applied to the designs as all-over prints, with a focus on his lyrics and handwriting.
With the lyrics, Vandenberg, who in his work addressed an individual’s struggles in cultural and social history, wanted to send out thought-provoking messages – something Simons wanted to portray through the use of the artworks for the collection.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk.